AREA BLADE #
Body #7
Pads #15
Stomach #10
Slicker brush, metal combs (wide and regular tooth), scissors, clippers, blades (if clipping, see below) and matt splitter (as needed).
Regular brushing and combing several times a week is essential in order to remove substantial wooly hair shed from the dense undercoat, and not only the outer coarse guard coat which protects the undercoat. The density of the hair coat can be misleading to novice groomers or owners of this breed; it is very dense.
The comfort of the Chow Chow through the professional grooming process is significantly increased when the dog owner has maintained proper regular brushing and combing. Detangling products may work well on this type of wooly under coat when matted or heavily-undercoated. Allow extra time to groom these dogs with poor coat conditions.
Hair shed not removed from the undercoat as well as any in the outer coat easily invites tangling and matting with time, and whenever the dog gets wet, even damp. Remove the hair shed from the under coat before bathing with a thorough brush and comb out. Wetting the wooly undercoat causes matting and tangling effects to increase almost immediately. Experienced groomers may choose to remove some of the last under coat hair shed after bathing, and after adding a conditioner to make final under
Some groomers are cautious to very cautious about grooming Chow Chows. They are very loyal to their owners and may be aggressive with groomers unfamiliar with them. Hopefully the Chow Chow pet owner will start grooming their dog at an early age as well as introducing them to professional grooming in order to ease any aggressive tendencies. We know some experienced groomers that have eased the problem by having the owner of the aggressive Chow Chow stay during the first two grooming appointments and show their approval for the groomer working on them. Thereafter, the same groomer should groom the adapted Chow Chow. Only very experienced groomers should handle any aggressive dog regardless of breed.
Thursday, November 18, 2010
American Cocker Spaniel
Supplies Needed
Large pin brush Slicker brush Matting comb
Steel comb Ear powder (medicated) Nail clipper
(guillotine type)
Oster Clipper A5
(recommended) Lanolin coat conditioner Scissors
# 10 blade # 7 or 8 1/2 blade Thinning shears
Artificial tears eye drops
Large pin brush ....Brushing the coat
Slicker brush/Matting comb..... Removing mats
Ear powder ....Inside of ears
Nail clipper.... Nails (use caution)*
Scissors.... -between pads of feet
-leg feathering
-feet
# 10 blade -about 1/2" around the anus (never directly on anus)
-underneath tail
- pelvis (navel to groin)
-front neck
-top upper 1/3 of ears (inside & out)
- head
Steel comb ......Entire coat
# 10 or 8 1/2 or 7...... Entire back & tail (from back neck to tail)
Thinning shears --blending uneven hair at shoulders and hindquarters with -leg feathering
-blending uneven hair on chest
-under chest (if necessary)
-front legs
Lanolin coat .....conditioner Entire coat
Artificial tears eye drops ..... Use during and after clipping to remove any hair blown into the eyes
Large pin brush Slicker brush Matting comb
Steel comb Ear powder (medicated) Nail clipper
(guillotine type)
Oster Clipper A5
(recommended) Lanolin coat conditioner Scissors
# 10 blade # 7 or 8 1/2 blade Thinning shears
Artificial tears eye drops
Large pin brush ....Brushing the coat
Slicker brush/Matting comb..... Removing mats
Ear powder ....Inside of ears
Nail clipper.... Nails (use caution)*
Scissors.... -between pads of feet
-leg feathering
-feet
# 10 blade -about 1/2" around the anus (never directly on anus)
-underneath tail
- pelvis (navel to groin)
-front neck
-top upper 1/3 of ears (inside & out)
- head
Steel comb ......Entire coat
# 10 or 8 1/2 or 7...... Entire back & tail (from back neck to tail)
Thinning shears --blending uneven hair at shoulders and hindquarters with -leg feathering
-blending uneven hair on chest
-under chest (if necessary)
-front legs
Lanolin coat .....conditioner Entire coat
Artificial tears eye drops ..... Use during and after clipping to remove any hair blown into the eyes
Havenese
Grooming
Tools Required
medium round toothed steel comb
small, close toothed comb (or small flea comb)
Pin brush
Small blunt-tipped scissors
Nail trimmer
Hair Dryer
Grooming table
Lots of towels
Spray bottles
Mineral oil in dropper (for eyes)
Cotton balls (for ears)
Brushing
Havanese have a long, soft and wavy coat. Brushing daily or every second day is important if you don’t want to fight with matting in the hair. Even though a pup doesn't require as frequent a brushing, it is good to make it a routine early. With constant gentleness, praise and rewards afterwards, grooming will become a pleasant time for both of you.
I found a Pin brush more effective that a bristle brush because of the thickness and waviness of the Havanese coat. Always wet hair using a spray bottle filled with water, or a water/detangler/conditioner mix before brushing. Wet any tangles or mats and gently tease them apart with your fingers or a comb. Always brush a long coat in sections, working from the roots (close to the skin) out. When brushing is finished, run a medium comb through the hair to check for hidden knots.
Bathing
A clean coat is less prone to tangles. How often you need to bath your pup depends on his environment and also his color. Dogs kept in clean surroundings may not need as frequent a bathing.
Being prepared for the bath makes things go a lot smoother and easier. Always brush out hair well before bathing. Putting a drop of mineral oil in each eye protects the eyes from the soap and putting a half a cotton ball in each ear helps keep the water out of the ears. It’s best to try to keep the ears dry inside so as not to cause problems with infections. Keeping the hair from the inside of the ears by gently removing it by pinching it out with your fingers prevents problems as well. Make a habit of pulling the hair out just before you put in the cotton ball so then it becomes routine and doesn't have a chance to build up. Last of all make sure to have a nice big towel ready for afterwards.
Use warm water (body temperature) and wet the entire dog except for his head. Apply shampoo with a spray bottle (mixture of shampoo with water) to help to spread the shampoo and rub in gently so as not to tangle the coat too much. I usually wash the areas such as the feet, butt and front neck area twice in order to get them good and clean. Rinse very well and apply conditioner (some conditioners you can leave in to save time). Once you have finished with the body you can start bathing the head. This is the part that the pup dislike the most, and so I leave it to last.
The inner corners of the eyes get a buildup of gunk. Wetting first with warm water and then gently combing them out should loosen the crusty. I use a flea comb to do this. If you want to prevent serious tear staining, eye cleaning should be done daily. This website has quite good information on this subject http://www.bhejei.com/tearsta.htm
When washing the ear, even though you have put cotton in them to protect them from the water, be careful not spray water directly into them.
Blow-drying prevents tangles that occur if the coat dries naturally. Start by separating the hair with your fingers as your dry and as the coat becomes less wet, use the pin brush to separate the hairs and keep the tangles out - this also helps to speed up the drying time.
Monthly Maintenance
Trimming the nails is an important part of grooming and if you start slowly – simply holding the pup still and separating the toes without clipping for the first few times – this helps the pup to adjust to the ordeal. Then try cutting only one nail and with much praise and a treat, next time he may allow you to clip two. Soon you’ll be able to do the whole job at once.
I like to take small clips rather than a large amount at once, just to make sure I don’t cut into the nail ‘quick’. It causes the nail to bleed even though it isn’t serious and it heals quickly.
In addition to keeping the hair out of the ears, it is necessary to keep the bum area and piddle area clean of hair. This helps the pup stay tidy when he is eliminating. I use a good quality blunt tipped pair of scissors for this.
Tools Required
medium round toothed steel comb
small, close toothed comb (or small flea comb)
Pin brush
Small blunt-tipped scissors
Nail trimmer
Hair Dryer
Grooming table
Lots of towels
Spray bottles
Mineral oil in dropper (for eyes)
Cotton balls (for ears)
Brushing
Havanese have a long, soft and wavy coat. Brushing daily or every second day is important if you don’t want to fight with matting in the hair. Even though a pup doesn't require as frequent a brushing, it is good to make it a routine early. With constant gentleness, praise and rewards afterwards, grooming will become a pleasant time for both of you.
I found a Pin brush more effective that a bristle brush because of the thickness and waviness of the Havanese coat. Always wet hair using a spray bottle filled with water, or a water/detangler/conditioner mix before brushing. Wet any tangles or mats and gently tease them apart with your fingers or a comb. Always brush a long coat in sections, working from the roots (close to the skin) out. When brushing is finished, run a medium comb through the hair to check for hidden knots.
Bathing
A clean coat is less prone to tangles. How often you need to bath your pup depends on his environment and also his color. Dogs kept in clean surroundings may not need as frequent a bathing.
Being prepared for the bath makes things go a lot smoother and easier. Always brush out hair well before bathing. Putting a drop of mineral oil in each eye protects the eyes from the soap and putting a half a cotton ball in each ear helps keep the water out of the ears. It’s best to try to keep the ears dry inside so as not to cause problems with infections. Keeping the hair from the inside of the ears by gently removing it by pinching it out with your fingers prevents problems as well. Make a habit of pulling the hair out just before you put in the cotton ball so then it becomes routine and doesn't have a chance to build up. Last of all make sure to have a nice big towel ready for afterwards.
Use warm water (body temperature) and wet the entire dog except for his head. Apply shampoo with a spray bottle (mixture of shampoo with water) to help to spread the shampoo and rub in gently so as not to tangle the coat too much. I usually wash the areas such as the feet, butt and front neck area twice in order to get them good and clean. Rinse very well and apply conditioner (some conditioners you can leave in to save time). Once you have finished with the body you can start bathing the head. This is the part that the pup dislike the most, and so I leave it to last.
The inner corners of the eyes get a buildup of gunk. Wetting first with warm water and then gently combing them out should loosen the crusty. I use a flea comb to do this. If you want to prevent serious tear staining, eye cleaning should be done daily. This website has quite good information on this subject http://www.bhejei.com/tearsta.htm
When washing the ear, even though you have put cotton in them to protect them from the water, be careful not spray water directly into them.
Blow-drying prevents tangles that occur if the coat dries naturally. Start by separating the hair with your fingers as your dry and as the coat becomes less wet, use the pin brush to separate the hairs and keep the tangles out - this also helps to speed up the drying time.
Monthly Maintenance
Trimming the nails is an important part of grooming and if you start slowly – simply holding the pup still and separating the toes without clipping for the first few times – this helps the pup to adjust to the ordeal. Then try cutting only one nail and with much praise and a treat, next time he may allow you to clip two. Soon you’ll be able to do the whole job at once.
I like to take small clips rather than a large amount at once, just to make sure I don’t cut into the nail ‘quick’. It causes the nail to bleed even though it isn’t serious and it heals quickly.
In addition to keeping the hair out of the ears, it is necessary to keep the bum area and piddle area clean of hair. This helps the pup stay tidy when he is eliminating. I use a good quality blunt tipped pair of scissors for this.
Wednesday, November 17, 2010
Shih Tzu
Be sure to begin with a clean, dry coat free of any trace of oil. The basic supplies you will use area good set of clippers with 10 and/or 7 blades, a slicker brush, shears, and a Whippet comb. (see below) and trim the mustache, the ears, and the tail. Trim the feet in a large rounded pattern. A variation on this style is to leave a skirt shown in drawing 2, on the right. You can trim this remaining skirt to whatever length that suits your dog's lifestyle.
The second basic clip shown in drawing 3at right. Begin in the same manner as drawing 1, but instead of leaving the legs long, scissor them to a 1 inch length. To scissor, use a slicker brush and pull the hair out and hold your shears parallel to the plane of the leg. Trim the feet close, also.
The third clip is the puppy trim shown in drawing 4 at far left. This is simply scissoring the dog to between 1 inch and 2 inches all over. To achieve a smooth effect, use a slicker brush and pull the hair out and old the shears parallel to the plane of the leg, as in "second basic clip." There are two variations that can be used on the head. Both variations look cute, with some practice are easy to achieve, and they are are low maintenance. Both of them will require using clippers, trimming from the outer eye to the base of the ear, as shown in drawing 5 at left.
In drawing 6 at left, the "cap" is scissor cut like a bowl, forming a pom-pom. Use curved scissors to create the angles that achieve the rounding effect. The hair on the head can be left longer, so it semi-parts in the center of the head shown in drawing 7, yet still keep the edges of the "cap." In both cases, the hair from the bridge of the nose is removed
The second basic clip shown in drawing 3at right. Begin in the same manner as drawing 1, but instead of leaving the legs long, scissor them to a 1 inch length. To scissor, use a slicker brush and pull the hair out and hold your shears parallel to the plane of the leg. Trim the feet close, also.
The third clip is the puppy trim shown in drawing 4 at far left. This is simply scissoring the dog to between 1 inch and 2 inches all over. To achieve a smooth effect, use a slicker brush and pull the hair out and old the shears parallel to the plane of the leg, as in "second basic clip." There are two variations that can be used on the head. Both variations look cute, with some practice are easy to achieve, and they are are low maintenance. Both of them will require using clippers, trimming from the outer eye to the base of the ear, as shown in drawing 5 at left.
In drawing 6 at left, the "cap" is scissor cut like a bowl, forming a pom-pom. Use curved scissors to create the angles that achieve the rounding effect. The hair on the head can be left longer, so it semi-parts in the center of the head shown in drawing 7, yet still keep the edges of the "cap." In both cases, the hair from the bridge of the nose is removed
mixed breeds
Mixed Breed Grooming?
Learning the art of breed specific grooming is expected of every professional groomer. However, most groomers face many work days when half or more the pets they groom are "mixed breed" pets, a combination of two or more breeds as opposed to "purebred." A strong background in breed standard grooming facilitates the mixed breed groomer.
Sunny Photo: Friends of PetGroomer.com Photo Gallery
There is an art to mixed breed grooming; it just isn't celebrated like the competitive art of purebred styling. More important mixed breed grooming is in demand by millions of pet owners, and that means being a skilled mixed breed groomer is very practical.
Fun Mixed Breed Names
- Cock-A-Poo or Cockerpoo- Cocker and Poodle mix.
- Schnoodle - Schnauzer and Poodle mix.
- Peke-A-Poo - Pekingese and Poodle mix.
- Malt-I-Poo - Maltese and Poodle mix.
- Lhasa-Poo - Lhasa and Poodle mix.
- Pom-A-Poo - Pomeranian and Poodle mix.
- Labradoodle - Labrador and Poodle mix.
Mixed Breed Basics
Since there are no breed standard rules to how to groom any mixed breed, there's a lot open territory to come up with a design. The most important factors are:
Primary Breed Appearance
Pet Owner and Pet Lifestyle
Pet Owner Desires
Coat Characteristics
Of course, as the groomer you incorporate all of these factors, and a dash of creativity, and go for it!
We strongly suggest professional groomers keep a photo album of various mixed breed styles they offer, and share it with pet owners deciding on an appropriate style. You will find a great reduction in disappointed pet owners who thought the "look" you described with words alone was something quite different.
Primary Breed Appearance
A professional groomer looks at the overall appearance of a mixed breed pet and determines what breed is dominant. For example, a "Cock-A-Poo" usually appears more Cocker or more Poodle. Once the dominant breed is determined, consider how the pet would like in a breed standard grooming for the dominant breed. You're not likely going to perform that style, but it helps you to discover the design obstacles and start thinking about other alternatives.
"Lonnie" in the picture above was a Cock-A-Poo and had many Poodle characteristics. Her style was very much like a Poodle, but certainly she didn't have "Poodle feet" (clipped short) and her tail was long and only lightly scissored. Also, her coat was clipped and scissored about 1 inch all over without a "pattern and clipped neck. Still Lonnie had the essence of a Poodle styling, and that matched her dominant breed appearance.
In review, we started with a Poodle-like trim and then subtracted common features of Poodle styling like clipped feet, a pattern and shaped tail.
If a pet looks more like a Terrier than a Poodle, a Poodle-type styling probably won't look right, but using your creativity you may be to add a few Poodle touches. Use the same logic in creating all styling suggestions.
Pet Owner and Pet Lifestyle
Ask about the active lifestyle of the pet owner and their pet. You may discover that they participate in outdoor recreation and sports, or the dog spends most of its time outside. In this case, a shorter maintenance cut might be appropriate for them. If the dog gets wet in a pool at home, playing in sprinklers and other outdoor activities, and the pet has a coat that matts, you have even more reason to suggest a shorter maintenance cut.
Pet Owner Desires
Unless they're a new mixed breed pet owner, most new customers will arrive with an idea of what they want their pet to look like when finished. You need to listen carefully. Of course, you may hear something that is impractical. You need to learn the diplomacy of politely explaining why it would not be appropriate for the pet. You cannot be a groomer that refuses to style their way just because you don't approve.
One of the easiest tests to see how much the mixed breed owner of a Poodle mix favors Poodle-like styling is to ask about their preferences for a short clipped neck, short clipped feet and a pattern. Very few Poodle mixed breed owners favor these styling attributes unless the pet shows little evidence of being anything other than a Poodle.
Coat Characteristics
The dominant breed appearance is usually evident from the coat, but with mixed breeds be prepared for exceptions! Part of the body may have a Terrier-like coat, and the rest a Poodle-like coat.
You need to determine the coat characteristics and try to plan a style appropriate to the coat. Don't fight the coat characteristics to produce a style. It won't work out in the long run.
Blade Chart for Mixed Breed Grooming
Straight & Soft Coat Blade #
Long trim - "puppy trim" #30 and #1 Comb
Short trim (not strip) #4F
Very matted strip #7F or #5F
Stomach #10
Pads #15
Wiry & Hard Coat
Blade #
Heads and ears #10 or #9
Body #7 or #5
Stomach #10
Pads #15
Curly Coat
Blade #
Face #10
Body #4F
Stomach #10
Pads #15
Learning the art of breed specific grooming is expected of every professional groomer. However, most groomers face many work days when half or more the pets they groom are "mixed breed" pets, a combination of two or more breeds as opposed to "purebred." A strong background in breed standard grooming facilitates the mixed breed groomer.
Sunny Photo: Friends of PetGroomer.com Photo Gallery
There is an art to mixed breed grooming; it just isn't celebrated like the competitive art of purebred styling. More important mixed breed grooming is in demand by millions of pet owners, and that means being a skilled mixed breed groomer is very practical.
Fun Mixed Breed Names
- Cock-A-Poo or Cockerpoo- Cocker and Poodle mix.
- Schnoodle - Schnauzer and Poodle mix.
- Peke-A-Poo - Pekingese and Poodle mix.
- Malt-I-Poo - Maltese and Poodle mix.
- Lhasa-Poo - Lhasa and Poodle mix.
- Pom-A-Poo - Pomeranian and Poodle mix.
- Labradoodle - Labrador and Poodle mix.
Mixed Breed Basics
Since there are no breed standard rules to how to groom any mixed breed, there's a lot open territory to come up with a design. The most important factors are:
Primary Breed Appearance
Pet Owner and Pet Lifestyle
Pet Owner Desires
Coat Characteristics
Of course, as the groomer you incorporate all of these factors, and a dash of creativity, and go for it!
We strongly suggest professional groomers keep a photo album of various mixed breed styles they offer, and share it with pet owners deciding on an appropriate style. You will find a great reduction in disappointed pet owners who thought the "look" you described with words alone was something quite different.
Primary Breed Appearance
A professional groomer looks at the overall appearance of a mixed breed pet and determines what breed is dominant. For example, a "Cock-A-Poo" usually appears more Cocker or more Poodle. Once the dominant breed is determined, consider how the pet would like in a breed standard grooming for the dominant breed. You're not likely going to perform that style, but it helps you to discover the design obstacles and start thinking about other alternatives.
"Lonnie" in the picture above was a Cock-A-Poo and had many Poodle characteristics. Her style was very much like a Poodle, but certainly she didn't have "Poodle feet" (clipped short) and her tail was long and only lightly scissored. Also, her coat was clipped and scissored about 1 inch all over without a "pattern and clipped neck. Still Lonnie had the essence of a Poodle styling, and that matched her dominant breed appearance.
In review, we started with a Poodle-like trim and then subtracted common features of Poodle styling like clipped feet, a pattern and shaped tail.
If a pet looks more like a Terrier than a Poodle, a Poodle-type styling probably won't look right, but using your creativity you may be to add a few Poodle touches. Use the same logic in creating all styling suggestions.
Pet Owner and Pet Lifestyle
Ask about the active lifestyle of the pet owner and their pet. You may discover that they participate in outdoor recreation and sports, or the dog spends most of its time outside. In this case, a shorter maintenance cut might be appropriate for them. If the dog gets wet in a pool at home, playing in sprinklers and other outdoor activities, and the pet has a coat that matts, you have even more reason to suggest a shorter maintenance cut.
Pet Owner Desires
Unless they're a new mixed breed pet owner, most new customers will arrive with an idea of what they want their pet to look like when finished. You need to listen carefully. Of course, you may hear something that is impractical. You need to learn the diplomacy of politely explaining why it would not be appropriate for the pet. You cannot be a groomer that refuses to style their way just because you don't approve.
One of the easiest tests to see how much the mixed breed owner of a Poodle mix favors Poodle-like styling is to ask about their preferences for a short clipped neck, short clipped feet and a pattern. Very few Poodle mixed breed owners favor these styling attributes unless the pet shows little evidence of being anything other than a Poodle.
Coat Characteristics
The dominant breed appearance is usually evident from the coat, but with mixed breeds be prepared for exceptions! Part of the body may have a Terrier-like coat, and the rest a Poodle-like coat.
You need to determine the coat characteristics and try to plan a style appropriate to the coat. Don't fight the coat characteristics to produce a style. It won't work out in the long run.
Blade Chart for Mixed Breed Grooming
Straight & Soft Coat Blade #
Long trim - "puppy trim" #30 and #1 Comb
Short trim (not strip) #4F
Very matted strip #7F or #5F
Stomach #10
Pads #15
Wiry & Hard Coat
Blade #
Heads and ears #10 or #9
Body #7 or #5
Stomach #10
Pads #15
Curly Coat
Blade #
Face #10
Body #4F
Stomach #10
Pads #15
Golden Retreiver
Trimming the tail is accomplished using Thinning Shears as described and illustrated with photos below.
Don't let this task daunt you, it isn't that hard, just do a little at a time, over a period of several days, until you have the effect you desire. The Breed Standard reads that the tail should just reach the dogs hocks, and though some dogs will have a slightly longer tail, your goal is to trim the tail to that length as closely as possible, and still not have the tail look noticeably sculptured. The Goldens' tail has a rounder, fuller look when groomed, and the triangular wedge seen on an Irish Setter with a "break" at the base of the tail, is NOT the look desired. The area at the base of the tail is customarily not groomed to separate the tail from the feathering on the butt, as is done with the Setters in particular for the show ring, although on a heavily feathered dog, some shortening of the length can be done to keep the dog cleaner.
Brush the tail thoroughly, making sure all traces of tangles or matts are removed. Hold the tail down to the hock and place your thumb at the point where the end of the tail meets the hock to mark the length you will trim the tail to match. Note: in the photo, an imaginary line drawn from my thumb will just meet the top of the dogs hock.
This will be the final length of the tail.
Using the thinning shears, start trimming just past that point, giving yourself some leeway, especially if you are a beginner.
Lift the tail and begin thinning, rounding the length of the tail feathering slightly as you go toward the base. The dog in the illustration had his tail trimmed not that many weeks prior to the photo, so you need to look closely to see that I am trimming about 1" of feathering off. On the majority of dogs, especially if having never had their tails trimmed before, you will have quite a ragged edge of sometimes quite lengthy feathering, often much longer at the tip, and also very long at the point in this photo that my thinning shear is just beginning to come to. I make the initial cut of length this way, then come back, moving side to side across the tail breadth, making light and fleeting cuts to blend up the sides of the tail, so blunt cuts are not glaring at you. More extreme length of the feathering at the tails' base, should be trimmed a little also, this particular dog does not have an abundance of tail feathering or coat at this time.
The final two photos below, show the finished tail. I also do some rounding and blending very carefully at the very tip of the tail, so that when the tail is hanging naturally down, it doesn't look like someone cut it straight off with a blunt knife.
The thinning shears are also used, inserting the blade underneath the coat and "into" or "with" the direction of coat growth as in the red lines shown on the photo. A small amount of trimming is done under the ear on the neck area and under the dogs chin where the two red lines are above.
Following the line of the shoulder, if a heavy "shelf" exists as shown in photo, careful thinning of undercoat in the direction shown by the arrows, and combing out, will blend the coat in and reduce the heavy or "over-loaded" look to shoulders and neck. Groom over a period of several days
and "Stop, look, assess" as we did when doing the ears.
On some dogs, similar thinning at the base of neck at the withers is also necessary.
Note: topcoat is NOT removed in any of these area's, we are just thinning undercoat to remove some bulk.
Over zealous grooming in these areas, whether done with thinning shears, or a stripping knife will not preserve the natural look of the dog, nor will it enhance the dog or cover up lessor qualities. The dog should not have an "hourglass" look when looking straight at the front when done grooming.
Don't let this task daunt you, it isn't that hard, just do a little at a time, over a period of several days, until you have the effect you desire. The Breed Standard reads that the tail should just reach the dogs hocks, and though some dogs will have a slightly longer tail, your goal is to trim the tail to that length as closely as possible, and still not have the tail look noticeably sculptured. The Goldens' tail has a rounder, fuller look when groomed, and the triangular wedge seen on an Irish Setter with a "break" at the base of the tail, is NOT the look desired. The area at the base of the tail is customarily not groomed to separate the tail from the feathering on the butt, as is done with the Setters in particular for the show ring, although on a heavily feathered dog, some shortening of the length can be done to keep the dog cleaner.
Brush the tail thoroughly, making sure all traces of tangles or matts are removed. Hold the tail down to the hock and place your thumb at the point where the end of the tail meets the hock to mark the length you will trim the tail to match. Note: in the photo, an imaginary line drawn from my thumb will just meet the top of the dogs hock.
This will be the final length of the tail.
Using the thinning shears, start trimming just past that point, giving yourself some leeway, especially if you are a beginner.
Lift the tail and begin thinning, rounding the length of the tail feathering slightly as you go toward the base. The dog in the illustration had his tail trimmed not that many weeks prior to the photo, so you need to look closely to see that I am trimming about 1" of feathering off. On the majority of dogs, especially if having never had their tails trimmed before, you will have quite a ragged edge of sometimes quite lengthy feathering, often much longer at the tip, and also very long at the point in this photo that my thinning shear is just beginning to come to. I make the initial cut of length this way, then come back, moving side to side across the tail breadth, making light and fleeting cuts to blend up the sides of the tail, so blunt cuts are not glaring at you. More extreme length of the feathering at the tails' base, should be trimmed a little also, this particular dog does not have an abundance of tail feathering or coat at this time.
The final two photos below, show the finished tail. I also do some rounding and blending very carefully at the very tip of the tail, so that when the tail is hanging naturally down, it doesn't look like someone cut it straight off with a blunt knife.
The thinning shears are also used, inserting the blade underneath the coat and "into" or "with" the direction of coat growth as in the red lines shown on the photo. A small amount of trimming is done under the ear on the neck area and under the dogs chin where the two red lines are above.
Following the line of the shoulder, if a heavy "shelf" exists as shown in photo, careful thinning of undercoat in the direction shown by the arrows, and combing out, will blend the coat in and reduce the heavy or "over-loaded" look to shoulders and neck. Groom over a period of several days
and "Stop, look, assess" as we did when doing the ears.
On some dogs, similar thinning at the base of neck at the withers is also necessary.
Note: topcoat is NOT removed in any of these area's, we are just thinning undercoat to remove some bulk.
Over zealous grooming in these areas, whether done with thinning shears, or a stripping knife will not preserve the natural look of the dog, nor will it enhance the dog or cover up lessor qualities. The dog should not have an "hourglass" look when looking straight at the front when done grooming.
Austrailian Cattle Dog
•Brush out the topcoat with a natural bristle brush. This smooths out the top coat and removes loose shed hair from the undercoat. Starting with a wide tooth comb may also be helpful in removing mats and tangles from the thick undercoat.
•2
Apply a protein coat conditioner to aid in the removal of hair from the undercoat. This can make the process much less painful for the dog. Australian Cattle dogs shed substantially once or twice per year, depending on the climate and the sex of the dog.
•3
Bathe only when necessary. These dogs produce natural oils which help make their coats water-proof and bathing them too often strips away these oils and can potentially damage the coat.
•4
After bathing, use a high velocity dryer to help dry the coat quickly. Use a pin brush for a final comb out, as dirt can get stuck in the undercoat during the drying process
Read more: How to Groom an Australian Cattle Dog | eHow.com http://www.ehow.com/how_2103737_groom-australian-cattle-dog.html#ixzz15ZglONfs
Originally named as Blue heelers, this dog breed is also known as Australian Cattle Dogs or Queensland Blue Heelers and its origin can be recorded back to the year 1897. This dog breed is a mixture of Scottish Collie, Australian Dingos, Bull Terriers and Dalmatians. They have a sturdy and well built look in spite of its short stature. Grooming plays an important role in their good upbringing and training.
A Blue Heeler is an energetic dog breed which can perform various roles in a day to day routine proving themselves to be good as:
•Guard Dogs
•Rescue Dogs
•Cattle Chasers
•Friendly House Pets
To play its role efficiently, Blue Heelers need extensive training, regular exercise and a little share of pampering and grooming. 17-20 inches in height, this dog breed is comparatively shorter than the normal dogs and comes with a double coated fur with a handful of colors. Many Australian Cattle Dog (ACD) breeders make extra efforts to keep their dogs well maintained as they know the importance of a well groomed Blue heeler.
Australian Cattle Dog (ACD) puppies are generally easy to handle due to their patience and flexibility. Thus, it is highly important to train them strictly to tackle their dominance and to ease their grooming session.
Three most important things you can do to make your dog’s grooming sessions effective are:
•Firstly, make your dog used to water and bathing, as often dogs, when less trained and less groomed, tend to run away from water which can make cleaning them a tough job. Also, you don’t want them to spray all the water on you, for which, it is necessary to make your dog friendly with water right from its puppy stage. You can do this easily by taking him to the beach with you in evenings or give him his own small bath tub. Do not avoid the need of making your Australian Cattle Dog (ACD) puppy’s bath time a special one, as this will ensure a discipline towards its bathing session in grooming at a later stage.
•The second most important grooming step or stage is brushing. This breed has a double fur coat which can cause problem for many Australian Cattle Dog (ACD) breeders. The fur coats of Blue Heelers are double coated and come in variety of shades and thus it requires brushing thrice a week to maintain its look and fluffiness. This brushing also helps in removing any tick or dust particle on its fur coat which could go on to cause future skin problems. Compared to the other dog breeds, it is easier to brush or comb a Blue Heeler due to its smaller size.
•Thirdly, a healthy diet should always be a big part of an Australian Cattle Dog’s routine, as this breed is one of the most energetic and active breed and is also known as a “Working breed”. To make them fit and healthy for their daily routine, a good diet plays a special role in their dog care and grooming. Also, a healthy and hearty diet ensures a shiny coat!
Good pet grooming always affects a dog’s obedience, temperament, health and dog care. If this dog breed is well trained and well groomed, it is expected to live up to 13 to 15 years.
Bathing, brushing, massaging and healthy eating, all are necessary for a Blue Heeler and it’s bringing up. Remember, grooming takes a lot of patience and attention, and thus, if you wish to be an Australian Cattle Dog breeder, good pet grooming is something you need to adopt to make sure that you give your pet the right dog care he deserves.
The Australian cattle dog has a straight, flat and smooth double coat. This coat does not shed all year round but blows its coat(shed their undercoat and regrow it again as colder weather comes in) once a year.
Tools: Rubber curry comb, slicker
The curry comb will rid your dog of dirt and loose hair. Use the slicker as needed.
Eyes: Check dog's eyes daily.
Debris is flushed to the corners of the eyes and daily wiping with a wet cloth or paper towel can prevent the build up of bacteria.
Ears: Check ears once a week.
Your dogs ears should be pink and healthy inside. If not, don't do anything to them until you see a vet. Keeping your dogs' ears clean minimizes odour, removes dirt, bacteria and mites trapped in wax. Never use a cotton swab on the inner ear.
Tools: cotton wool balls or soft cloth and ear solution.
There are solutions made specifically for dogs but substitutes include: hydrogen peroxide, alcohol, mineral oil, witch hazel, and tea tree oil.
Place a few drops of ear solution in ear and rub and massage to loosen wax. Swab out with cotton wool balls or cloth.
Teeth: Regularly.
80% of 3 year old dogs have periodontal disease due to lack of brushing. Cavities and gum disease are painful for your dog; they diminish its pleasure and ability to eat. Bacteria that develops can infect the heart, kidney, liver and brain. Really bad breath is usually a sign of gum disease.
Tools: Toothbrush/finger cap/cloth, doggie toothpaste, tooth scraper.
Never use human toothpaste. It is not edible.
Starting your Australian cattle dog off with this practice takes patience. Reward it constantly.
Start off by getting it used to its mouth being handled.
Progress to touching the teeth with your finger.
Get some meat-flavoured toothpaste and apply with your finger.
Then introduce the brush. Clean a few teeth at a time and soon you will have a routine that takes just minutes.
Brush in a circular motion and get under the gum line.
If you don't want to brush everyday, use a tooth scraper once or twice a month to get rid of the build up of plaque. It accumulates mostly on the outside of the teeth and on the back molars. This won't be much fun for your or your dog though. Lots of bones and hard, crunchy foods can minimize plaque but not to a truly effective degree.
Nails: Every two weeks.
Nail care is very important for your Australian cattle dog.
Nails that aren't trimmed can splinter and infect the quick or grow and curl into the flesh. This can be painful for your dog to walk on. It will affect its gait, posture, and eventually it's skeletal and ligament health. Nails should never touch the ground. When your dog is standing its nails should rest above the ground. If you hear clicking on the kitchen floor, clipping is overdue.
Tools: Doggie Nail Clippers (scissors, pliers, guillotine), Dremel or file, Styptic or Kwikstop.
Introducing your dog to nail clipping should start off by getting it used to its paws being handled. Stroke, touch and manipulate your dog's paws whenever you are giving it affection.
Getting it used to the Dremel is your best bet to avoid clipping altogether.
Sit beside your dog and put your arm around its shoulders if you can so that you are clipping from underneath and at the right angle.
Lift the paw and press on it to expose the claw.
If it has a clear nail you should be able to see the quick: a dark bundle of nerves and blood vessels. Clip from underneath close to the quick but do not cut into it. If you do, your dog will soon let you know. Use Styptic pencil or Kwikstop to staunch the bleeding.
Buff the ragged edge with a file or Dremel.
If it has a dark nail, clip just under the curve of the nail and then you will be able to look inside and see the quick if you look close enough. Clip using tiny snips at a time.
Don't forget to check for dewclaws: an extra claw dogs may have farther up on the leg that works like a thumb. It is better to clip your dog's nails frequently as this encourages the quick to recede farther away from the tip.
Paws: Check daily
It is very important to check your cattle hound's feet for foreign objects that may have wedged there, and to check the pads themselves for cuts, scrapes and infections.
Expressing Glands: Every 2 to 4 weeks
This is a task normally done when you take your dog in for professional grooming. Your dog uses scent glands in the anus to mark its territory.
These glands also excrete when your dog defecates. At times, they may get impacted. Signs of this include: increased doggie odour, excessive licking and chewing of the behind and worst of all, scooting (when your dog drags its bottom along the floor or carpet).
There is no risk of overly expressing these glands so it's best to get accustomed to doing it regularly as it will lessen dog odour.
Tools: Warm cloth
Lift the dog's tail and hold the cloth against it's behind. Place your fingers at 5 o'clock and 7 o'clock and press inward and squeeze to expel.
Bathing: As needed
Australian cattledogs do not need regular bathing. It has natural oils in its coat to moisturize its skin and coat.
If it so happens that it becomes a necessity, use a shampoo that won't dry out the skin and is made for a harsh coat.
Tools: Non-slip mat, sprayer hose, dog shampoo, leash, towels.
Choose a place where you can block escape routes and expect 1-3 water-spraying shakes.
A leash tied to a higher point than your dog's head will keep it standing and prevent it from escaping. This is highly recommended as it's really difficult to hold a slippery dog.
Never bathe your dog in standing water and never use human shampoo.
If you choose to bathe your Australian cattle dog outside, attach the hose to the tap of your kitchen sink for warm water. Grooming salons often offer self-service use of their well-equipped facilities.
Wet your dog using your hand to massage it.
Avoid getting water into the eyes, nose and ears.
Cotton wool can be stuffed into the ear canal to deter water.
Massage the shampoo into a lather.
Rinse thoroughly as leftover shampoo can severely dry out and irritate your pet's skin.
Squeeze out excess water by running your hands along its body and pressing.
Dry with a towel.
•2
Apply a protein coat conditioner to aid in the removal of hair from the undercoat. This can make the process much less painful for the dog. Australian Cattle dogs shed substantially once or twice per year, depending on the climate and the sex of the dog.
•3
Bathe only when necessary. These dogs produce natural oils which help make their coats water-proof and bathing them too often strips away these oils and can potentially damage the coat.
•4
After bathing, use a high velocity dryer to help dry the coat quickly. Use a pin brush for a final comb out, as dirt can get stuck in the undercoat during the drying process
Read more: How to Groom an Australian Cattle Dog | eHow.com http://www.ehow.com/how_2103737_groom-australian-cattle-dog.html#ixzz15ZglONfs
Originally named as Blue heelers, this dog breed is also known as Australian Cattle Dogs or Queensland Blue Heelers and its origin can be recorded back to the year 1897. This dog breed is a mixture of Scottish Collie, Australian Dingos, Bull Terriers and Dalmatians. They have a sturdy and well built look in spite of its short stature. Grooming plays an important role in their good upbringing and training.
A Blue Heeler is an energetic dog breed which can perform various roles in a day to day routine proving themselves to be good as:
•Guard Dogs
•Rescue Dogs
•Cattle Chasers
•Friendly House Pets
To play its role efficiently, Blue Heelers need extensive training, regular exercise and a little share of pampering and grooming. 17-20 inches in height, this dog breed is comparatively shorter than the normal dogs and comes with a double coated fur with a handful of colors. Many Australian Cattle Dog (ACD) breeders make extra efforts to keep their dogs well maintained as they know the importance of a well groomed Blue heeler.
Australian Cattle Dog (ACD) puppies are generally easy to handle due to their patience and flexibility. Thus, it is highly important to train them strictly to tackle their dominance and to ease their grooming session.
Three most important things you can do to make your dog’s grooming sessions effective are:
•Firstly, make your dog used to water and bathing, as often dogs, when less trained and less groomed, tend to run away from water which can make cleaning them a tough job. Also, you don’t want them to spray all the water on you, for which, it is necessary to make your dog friendly with water right from its puppy stage. You can do this easily by taking him to the beach with you in evenings or give him his own small bath tub. Do not avoid the need of making your Australian Cattle Dog (ACD) puppy’s bath time a special one, as this will ensure a discipline towards its bathing session in grooming at a later stage.
•The second most important grooming step or stage is brushing. This breed has a double fur coat which can cause problem for many Australian Cattle Dog (ACD) breeders. The fur coats of Blue Heelers are double coated and come in variety of shades and thus it requires brushing thrice a week to maintain its look and fluffiness. This brushing also helps in removing any tick or dust particle on its fur coat which could go on to cause future skin problems. Compared to the other dog breeds, it is easier to brush or comb a Blue Heeler due to its smaller size.
•Thirdly, a healthy diet should always be a big part of an Australian Cattle Dog’s routine, as this breed is one of the most energetic and active breed and is also known as a “Working breed”. To make them fit and healthy for their daily routine, a good diet plays a special role in their dog care and grooming. Also, a healthy and hearty diet ensures a shiny coat!
Good pet grooming always affects a dog’s obedience, temperament, health and dog care. If this dog breed is well trained and well groomed, it is expected to live up to 13 to 15 years.
Bathing, brushing, massaging and healthy eating, all are necessary for a Blue Heeler and it’s bringing up. Remember, grooming takes a lot of patience and attention, and thus, if you wish to be an Australian Cattle Dog breeder, good pet grooming is something you need to adopt to make sure that you give your pet the right dog care he deserves.
The Australian cattle dog has a straight, flat and smooth double coat. This coat does not shed all year round but blows its coat(shed their undercoat and regrow it again as colder weather comes in) once a year.
Tools: Rubber curry comb, slicker
The curry comb will rid your dog of dirt and loose hair. Use the slicker as needed.
Eyes: Check dog's eyes daily.
Debris is flushed to the corners of the eyes and daily wiping with a wet cloth or paper towel can prevent the build up of bacteria.
Ears: Check ears once a week.
Your dogs ears should be pink and healthy inside. If not, don't do anything to them until you see a vet. Keeping your dogs' ears clean minimizes odour, removes dirt, bacteria and mites trapped in wax. Never use a cotton swab on the inner ear.
Tools: cotton wool balls or soft cloth and ear solution.
There are solutions made specifically for dogs but substitutes include: hydrogen peroxide, alcohol, mineral oil, witch hazel, and tea tree oil.
Place a few drops of ear solution in ear and rub and massage to loosen wax. Swab out with cotton wool balls or cloth.
Teeth: Regularly.
80% of 3 year old dogs have periodontal disease due to lack of brushing. Cavities and gum disease are painful for your dog; they diminish its pleasure and ability to eat. Bacteria that develops can infect the heart, kidney, liver and brain. Really bad breath is usually a sign of gum disease.
Tools: Toothbrush/finger cap/cloth, doggie toothpaste, tooth scraper.
Never use human toothpaste. It is not edible.
Starting your Australian cattle dog off with this practice takes patience. Reward it constantly.
Start off by getting it used to its mouth being handled.
Progress to touching the teeth with your finger.
Get some meat-flavoured toothpaste and apply with your finger.
Then introduce the brush. Clean a few teeth at a time and soon you will have a routine that takes just minutes.
Brush in a circular motion and get under the gum line.
If you don't want to brush everyday, use a tooth scraper once or twice a month to get rid of the build up of plaque. It accumulates mostly on the outside of the teeth and on the back molars. This won't be much fun for your or your dog though. Lots of bones and hard, crunchy foods can minimize plaque but not to a truly effective degree.
Nails: Every two weeks.
Nail care is very important for your Australian cattle dog.
Nails that aren't trimmed can splinter and infect the quick or grow and curl into the flesh. This can be painful for your dog to walk on. It will affect its gait, posture, and eventually it's skeletal and ligament health. Nails should never touch the ground. When your dog is standing its nails should rest above the ground. If you hear clicking on the kitchen floor, clipping is overdue.
Tools: Doggie Nail Clippers (scissors, pliers, guillotine), Dremel or file, Styptic or Kwikstop.
Introducing your dog to nail clipping should start off by getting it used to its paws being handled. Stroke, touch and manipulate your dog's paws whenever you are giving it affection.
Getting it used to the Dremel is your best bet to avoid clipping altogether.
Sit beside your dog and put your arm around its shoulders if you can so that you are clipping from underneath and at the right angle.
Lift the paw and press on it to expose the claw.
If it has a clear nail you should be able to see the quick: a dark bundle of nerves and blood vessels. Clip from underneath close to the quick but do not cut into it. If you do, your dog will soon let you know. Use Styptic pencil or Kwikstop to staunch the bleeding.
Buff the ragged edge with a file or Dremel.
If it has a dark nail, clip just under the curve of the nail and then you will be able to look inside and see the quick if you look close enough. Clip using tiny snips at a time.
Don't forget to check for dewclaws: an extra claw dogs may have farther up on the leg that works like a thumb. It is better to clip your dog's nails frequently as this encourages the quick to recede farther away from the tip.
Paws: Check daily
It is very important to check your cattle hound's feet for foreign objects that may have wedged there, and to check the pads themselves for cuts, scrapes and infections.
Expressing Glands: Every 2 to 4 weeks
This is a task normally done when you take your dog in for professional grooming. Your dog uses scent glands in the anus to mark its territory.
These glands also excrete when your dog defecates. At times, they may get impacted. Signs of this include: increased doggie odour, excessive licking and chewing of the behind and worst of all, scooting (when your dog drags its bottom along the floor or carpet).
There is no risk of overly expressing these glands so it's best to get accustomed to doing it regularly as it will lessen dog odour.
Tools: Warm cloth
Lift the dog's tail and hold the cloth against it's behind. Place your fingers at 5 o'clock and 7 o'clock and press inward and squeeze to expel.
Bathing: As needed
Australian cattledogs do not need regular bathing. It has natural oils in its coat to moisturize its skin and coat.
If it so happens that it becomes a necessity, use a shampoo that won't dry out the skin and is made for a harsh coat.
Tools: Non-slip mat, sprayer hose, dog shampoo, leash, towels.
Choose a place where you can block escape routes and expect 1-3 water-spraying shakes.
A leash tied to a higher point than your dog's head will keep it standing and prevent it from escaping. This is highly recommended as it's really difficult to hold a slippery dog.
Never bathe your dog in standing water and never use human shampoo.
If you choose to bathe your Australian cattle dog outside, attach the hose to the tap of your kitchen sink for warm water. Grooming salons often offer self-service use of their well-equipped facilities.
Wet your dog using your hand to massage it.
Avoid getting water into the eyes, nose and ears.
Cotton wool can be stuffed into the ear canal to deter water.
Massage the shampoo into a lather.
Rinse thoroughly as leftover shampoo can severely dry out and irritate your pet's skin.
Squeeze out excess water by running your hands along its body and pressing.
Dry with a towel.
Subscribe to:
Comments (Atom)