The drop it command is used when your dog something in his mouth that you want him to let go.
The best way to teach this is by trading with your puppy. If he's holding one of his toys in his mouth, give im one fo his favorite treats and ask him to drop the toy as you offer him the treat. When he drops the toy, give him the treat. Keep doing this often until your puppy will instantly drop on command
Have your dog sit or stand. Let your dog sniff a treat you are holding, but don't let him have it.
• Lower the treat to the floor, and as you are doing that, your dog should follow it down.
• Be sure to say "lie down" as your dog begins to lower himself.
• Your dog should lower himself all the way to the floor. You should be now holding the treat between his front paws.
• Only give him the treat once he is on the floor. Repeat the words "Lie Down" many times: Say, "Good boy, lie down. Lie down you good boy."
• Practice this several times during the day and over several days.
Sunday, February 13, 2011
Sunday, January 23, 2011
Training Dogs
What are the goals of PSD training?
First, a PSD should be trained in basic obedience (e.g., sit, stay, come, down, go, leave it, etc.). Basic obedience instruction should employ verbal commands and hand signals. Training should be conducted, both, on and off-leash, first in low distraction environments moving gradually to higher distraction environments. Cap basic obedience with passage of the Canine Good Citizen test (see www.akc.org for details on this test).
Second, train for public access skills (i.e., behavior in public places such as restaurants, theaters, library, buses, subway, etc.). You should engage in at least six months of public access training with your dog. When you feel your dog is ready, put yourself and your dog through our public access test (see: http://www.psychdog.org/attach/Public_Access_Standard_Test_Sheet.pdf) You will need a professional dog trainer to administer the test. This person does not need to know anything about service dogs because of the way the test is written.
Third, teach the dog a few disability-related tasks (see task list for examples) and/or learn how to articulate your dog's "work". Start by describing the symptom you are dealing with. It needs to be a valid symptom that is characteristic of your specific disorder (see the DSM-IVTR). Then, describe in ‘slow-motion’ how you interact with your dog in a way that mitigates the symptom. While describing these interactions, focus on and identify the trained behaviors that make this form of assistance possible, no matter how simple or complex those trained behaviors may be.
Remember that learning is training. We believe that when a dog learns your physiologic baseline and can recognize deviations from baseline that are indicative of the onset of mental illness, then the dog is ‘doing work’ by facilitating handler insight related to the changes that are occurring in the handler’s own body. This, of course, assumes that the handler has learned to ‘read’ her dog as the dog is ‘reading’ her, a specialized skill that takes practice and sometimes mentorship from another PSD handler who can help new handlers recognize these valuable canine alerting behaviors.
No third party trainer or organization can train or teach your dog to recognize your baseline and its sequelae. This is a phenomenon that only occurs when dog and handler are together 24/7 for a period of at least six months. This is one reason we discourage folks from getting a PSD that was trained by someone else. Such dogs can only perform tasks, and most PSD handlers find that task performance is extremely limited in its utility. ‘Work’ is more useful to PSD handlers, because it is a form of assistance that does not require high levels of executive functioning in the handler. Such frontal lobe activity is often compromised when mental illness is active.
Persistent sadness
‘Hug’ command
Hopelessness
‘Cuddle’ and ‘Kiss’ commands
Hypersomnia (i.e., excessive sleeping)
Wake-up at specific time each day
Lack of motivation or apathy
‘Settle’ for Tactile Stimulation sessions
Short-term memory loss
Remind to take medication at specific times
First, a PSD should be trained in basic obedience (e.g., sit, stay, come, down, go, leave it, etc.). Basic obedience instruction should employ verbal commands and hand signals. Training should be conducted, both, on and off-leash, first in low distraction environments moving gradually to higher distraction environments. Cap basic obedience with passage of the Canine Good Citizen test (see www.akc.org for details on this test).
Second, train for public access skills (i.e., behavior in public places such as restaurants, theaters, library, buses, subway, etc.). You should engage in at least six months of public access training with your dog. When you feel your dog is ready, put yourself and your dog through our public access test (see: http://www.psychdog.org/attach/Public_Access_Standard_Test_Sheet.pdf) You will need a professional dog trainer to administer the test. This person does not need to know anything about service dogs because of the way the test is written.
Third, teach the dog a few disability-related tasks (see task list for examples) and/or learn how to articulate your dog's "work". Start by describing the symptom you are dealing with. It needs to be a valid symptom that is characteristic of your specific disorder (see the DSM-IVTR). Then, describe in ‘slow-motion’ how you interact with your dog in a way that mitigates the symptom. While describing these interactions, focus on and identify the trained behaviors that make this form of assistance possible, no matter how simple or complex those trained behaviors may be.
Remember that learning is training. We believe that when a dog learns your physiologic baseline and can recognize deviations from baseline that are indicative of the onset of mental illness, then the dog is ‘doing work’ by facilitating handler insight related to the changes that are occurring in the handler’s own body. This, of course, assumes that the handler has learned to ‘read’ her dog as the dog is ‘reading’ her, a specialized skill that takes practice and sometimes mentorship from another PSD handler who can help new handlers recognize these valuable canine alerting behaviors.
No third party trainer or organization can train or teach your dog to recognize your baseline and its sequelae. This is a phenomenon that only occurs when dog and handler are together 24/7 for a period of at least six months. This is one reason we discourage folks from getting a PSD that was trained by someone else. Such dogs can only perform tasks, and most PSD handlers find that task performance is extremely limited in its utility. ‘Work’ is more useful to PSD handlers, because it is a form of assistance that does not require high levels of executive functioning in the handler. Such frontal lobe activity is often compromised when mental illness is active.
Persistent sadness
‘Hug’ command
Hopelessness
‘Cuddle’ and ‘Kiss’ commands
Hypersomnia (i.e., excessive sleeping)
Wake-up at specific time each day
Lack of motivation or apathy
‘Settle’ for Tactile Stimulation sessions
Short-term memory loss
Remind to take medication at specific times
Wednesday, January 19, 2011
Growling behaviors
The Play Growl
Dogs growl when playing with each other. Listen to a litter of pups and it sounds like world war III most of the time. Growling is normal communication for dogs and in a play situation, it is like a human egging on the other during a pillow fight. It is strictly to illicit the desired behavior from the opponent and not meant aggressively.
The body language of a play growl is alert but relaxed. Lips are loose, covering the teeth, ears are in their natural play position, hackles will be down and the tail is in its typical play position. This is not a serious situation unless you are the toy!
Depending on your personal situation, you may want to discourage this growl behavior. For example, if you have children and their friends often visit, a play growl can scare a child that is not used to being around a dog. In addition, if you have a large or giant breed, this play growl could seem a lot more serious to then in a small dog.
The Talkie Growl
Some dogs tell you what they want by barking while others give you ‘the look’ and then there are some that use a growl to get your attention. Usually the dog’s body language is neutral or suggestive of ‘follow me’ – alert again but comfortable in their surroundings. As doggy/human communication goes, this is usually worth listening to as it often means they need to go outside, their water dish is empty, the house is on fire – you know, anything that they want you to deal with now, not in a few minutes.
The many growls have many meanings. Learn to read your dog’s moods and body language and you will learn to understand what they are telling you. Remember that not all dogs communicate exactly the same so if you an unknown dog is growling at you, always take it seriously – back away and do not approach again until the owner is around.
Dogs growl when playing with each other. Listen to a litter of pups and it sounds like world war III most of the time. Growling is normal communication for dogs and in a play situation, it is like a human egging on the other during a pillow fight. It is strictly to illicit the desired behavior from the opponent and not meant aggressively.
The body language of a play growl is alert but relaxed. Lips are loose, covering the teeth, ears are in their natural play position, hackles will be down and the tail is in its typical play position. This is not a serious situation unless you are the toy!
Depending on your personal situation, you may want to discourage this growl behavior. For example, if you have children and their friends often visit, a play growl can scare a child that is not used to being around a dog. In addition, if you have a large or giant breed, this play growl could seem a lot more serious to then in a small dog.
The Talkie Growl
Some dogs tell you what they want by barking while others give you ‘the look’ and then there are some that use a growl to get your attention. Usually the dog’s body language is neutral or suggestive of ‘follow me’ – alert again but comfortable in their surroundings. As doggy/human communication goes, this is usually worth listening to as it often means they need to go outside, their water dish is empty, the house is on fire – you know, anything that they want you to deal with now, not in a few minutes.
The many growls have many meanings. Learn to read your dog’s moods and body language and you will learn to understand what they are telling you. Remember that not all dogs communicate exactly the same so if you an unknown dog is growling at you, always take it seriously – back away and do not approach again until the owner is around.
Sunday, November 28, 2010
Heaven Can Wait
AGE REQUIREMENT (DOGS & CATS):
5 months - 5 years
(4 months are accepted providing the kitten or puppy has had 2 sets of the 3 in 1 or 5 in 1 vaccine)
SURGERY PRICES:
CATS
(Includes Rabies, 3-in-1 Vaccines and pain injection)
Spay (female) $75
Neuter (male) $50
DOGS
(Includes Rabies, 5-in-1 Vaccines, pain injection, take home meds and E-collars for males)
Spay (female) $115
Neuter (male) $115
OTHER SERVICES AVAILABLE DURING SURGERY
Microchipping $25 (includes registration)
Earmites $20
FeLV/FIV (Leukemia/Aids) Testing $35
ADDITIONAL CHARGES
Dogs in heat - additional $45.
Dogs pregnant (less than 4 weeks) - additional $45.
Crypt dogs and cats: additional $45. No abdominal exploratory surgery.
Male dogs over 100 pounds incur an additional $20. charage for every 10 pounds.
No female dogs weighing over 70 pounds.
There may be additional charges based on medical conditions. Some examples are weight, pregnancy, undescended testicles, etc. This applies to dogs and cats.
All services must be paid prior to surgery. Operating on a pre-payment basis helps us keep our fees affordable.
Chronic no-shows could cause future denial of services.
*We accept cash, major credit cards and debit cards
5 months - 5 years
(4 months are accepted providing the kitten or puppy has had 2 sets of the 3 in 1 or 5 in 1 vaccine)
SURGERY PRICES:
CATS
(Includes Rabies, 3-in-1 Vaccines and pain injection)
Spay (female) $75
Neuter (male) $50
DOGS
(Includes Rabies, 5-in-1 Vaccines, pain injection, take home meds and E-collars for males)
Spay (female) $115
Neuter (male) $115
OTHER SERVICES AVAILABLE DURING SURGERY
Microchipping $25 (includes registration)
Earmites $20
FeLV/FIV (Leukemia/Aids) Testing $35
ADDITIONAL CHARGES
Dogs in heat - additional $45.
Dogs pregnant (less than 4 weeks) - additional $45.
Crypt dogs and cats: additional $45. No abdominal exploratory surgery.
Male dogs over 100 pounds incur an additional $20. charage for every 10 pounds.
No female dogs weighing over 70 pounds.
There may be additional charges based on medical conditions. Some examples are weight, pregnancy, undescended testicles, etc. This applies to dogs and cats.
All services must be paid prior to surgery. Operating on a pre-payment basis helps us keep our fees affordable.
Chronic no-shows could cause future denial of services.
*We accept cash, major credit cards and debit cards
Tuesday, November 23, 2010
DogHouse STuff
Things You'll Need:
Nine 2-by-4-by-30 inch boards
Four 2-by-4-by-26 inch boards
Five pieces of 1/2-inch treated plywood, 30 by 30 inches
One piece 1/2-inch treated plywood, 15 by 30 inches
Saw
3/4-inch nails, 200
3-inch nails, 30
Screws 6 half-inch
Three 1-inch hinges
Two latches, such as eye-and-hook
Hammer
Screwdriver
•Cut the 2-by-4 inch boards and plywood as indicated in supplies needed to build a doghouse with a flat roof.
•2
Frame 4 of the 2-by-4 inch boards into a square frame by placing 2 of the 30-inch boards across from each other and 2 of the 26-inch boards 2 inches inside the edges of the 30-inch boards so that the edges are smooth. Repeat this process to create a second square.
•3
Hammer 3-inch nails into the 30-inch boards so that the nails go into the 26-inch boards, securing the square frames. Be sure to use at least 2 nails in each board.
•4
Hammer 3-inch nails into one 2-by-4-by-30 inch board into the inside of each corner, creating a cube. Also, hammer one 30-inch board 15 inches from one corner to create the door of the doghouse.
•5
Attach the 1/2-inch treated plywood squares using the 3/4-inch nails to the bottom of the cube creating the floor, the top of the cube creating the roof, and three sides of the cube. Do not yet attach the plywood to the side of the cube where you will make the door; this is the side that has a board attached at the 15-inch mark.
•6
Use the three hinges and screws to attach the smaller piece of 1/2-inch treated plywood, 15-by-30 inches, to the corner of the doghouse on the side you left open. Place the two latches on the board at the 15-inch mark. This will allow you to open the doghouse if necessary to clean it or to add bedding
Read more: How to Build a Doghouse With a Flat Roof | eHow.com http://www.ehow.com/how_4883005_build-doghouse-flat-roof.html#ixzz16AaS4jOw
Read more: How to Build a Doghouse With a Flat Roof | eHow.com http://www.ehow.com/how_4883005_build-doghouse-flat-roof.html#ixzz16AaM0Fbz
http://www.woodvendors.com/index.php/lumber.html
8 pieces to make a fence (a piece of fence) to hold a dog. (if i wanted to ahold dogs and sell them (like a animal control place). a total amount of money 172 dollars. thats 0.48 cents board a foot for a wooded a fence. so far the cheapest. a five piece by 2 piece.
4x8 ceder 67 dollars..... http://www.hooverfence.com/wood/dog-ear-spaced.htm
18dollars for wire mesh fence
t post anywhere from 9 dollars to 17dollars.
Nine 2-by-4-by-30 inch boards
Four 2-by-4-by-26 inch boards
Five pieces of 1/2-inch treated plywood, 30 by 30 inches
One piece 1/2-inch treated plywood, 15 by 30 inches
Saw
3/4-inch nails, 200
3-inch nails, 30
Screws 6 half-inch
Three 1-inch hinges
Two latches, such as eye-and-hook
Hammer
Screwdriver
•Cut the 2-by-4 inch boards and plywood as indicated in supplies needed to build a doghouse with a flat roof.
•2
Frame 4 of the 2-by-4 inch boards into a square frame by placing 2 of the 30-inch boards across from each other and 2 of the 26-inch boards 2 inches inside the edges of the 30-inch boards so that the edges are smooth. Repeat this process to create a second square.
•3
Hammer 3-inch nails into the 30-inch boards so that the nails go into the 26-inch boards, securing the square frames. Be sure to use at least 2 nails in each board.
•4
Hammer 3-inch nails into one 2-by-4-by-30 inch board into the inside of each corner, creating a cube. Also, hammer one 30-inch board 15 inches from one corner to create the door of the doghouse.
•5
Attach the 1/2-inch treated plywood squares using the 3/4-inch nails to the bottom of the cube creating the floor, the top of the cube creating the roof, and three sides of the cube. Do not yet attach the plywood to the side of the cube where you will make the door; this is the side that has a board attached at the 15-inch mark.
•6
Use the three hinges and screws to attach the smaller piece of 1/2-inch treated plywood, 15-by-30 inches, to the corner of the doghouse on the side you left open. Place the two latches on the board at the 15-inch mark. This will allow you to open the doghouse if necessary to clean it or to add bedding
Read more: How to Build a Doghouse With a Flat Roof | eHow.com http://www.ehow.com/how_4883005_build-doghouse-flat-roof.html#ixzz16AaS4jOw
Read more: How to Build a Doghouse With a Flat Roof | eHow.com http://www.ehow.com/how_4883005_build-doghouse-flat-roof.html#ixzz16AaM0Fbz
http://www.woodvendors.com/index.php/lumber.html
8 pieces to make a fence (a piece of fence) to hold a dog. (if i wanted to ahold dogs and sell them (like a animal control place). a total amount of money 172 dollars. thats 0.48 cents board a foot for a wooded a fence. so far the cheapest. a five piece by 2 piece.
4x8 ceder 67 dollars..... http://www.hooverfence.com/wood/dog-ear-spaced.htm
18dollars for wire mesh fence
t post anywhere from 9 dollars to 17dollars.
Thursday, November 18, 2010
American Pit Bull Terrier
This strong dog has a short, flat and harsh coat needing very little grooming.
Massage or brush your Pit bull terrier at least once a week.
Pit bulls should become accustomed to grooming practices as puppies. If you haven't done this, you'll probably need a good, strong leash, a muzzle, and a pair of helping hands.
Brushing:
. Removes dirt and debris
. Invigorates skin
. Spreads oils to moisturize skin and keep a shiny coat
. Prevents mats and tangles which are irritating painful and can harbor bacteria, fungus, other infection
. Keeps your house cleaner especially during shedding seasons
. Bonding, massaging, loving interaction
. Early detection of fleas, ticks, eczema, infection and smells that may signify sickness
Tools: Rubber curry comb or chamois.
Use the rubber curry comb, always in the direction of hair growth, to stimulate your American pit bull's natural oils and buff him to a glossy shine with a chamois.
It's important to clean between the folds and wrinkles on your dog's face and tail: dampness here can breed bacteria and lead to infection. There is a specific lotion developed for this issue that can be applied within folds.
Eyes: Check your dog's eyes daily.
Debris is flushed to the corners of the eyes and daily wiping with a wet cloth or paper towel can prevent the build up of bacteria.
Ears: Check ears once a week.
Your dogs ears should be pink and healthy inside. If not, don't do anything to them until you see a vet. Keeping your dogs' ears clean minimizes odour, removes dirt, bacteria and mites trapped in wax. Never use a cotton swab on the inner ear.
Tools: cotton wool balls or soft cloth and ear solution. There are solutions made specifically for dogs but substitutes include: hydrogen peroxide, alcohol, mineral oil, witch hazel, and tea tree oil.
Place a few drops of ear solution into the ear of your pit bull. Rub and massage to loosen wax. Swab out with cotton wool balls or cloth.
Teeth: Regularly. 80% of 3 year old dogs have periodontal disease due to lack of brushing. Cavities and gum disease are painful for your dog; they diminish its pleasure and ability to eat. Bacteria that develops can infect the heart, kidney, liver and brain. Really bad breath is usually a sign of gum disease.
Tools: Toothbrush/finger cap/cloth, doggie toothpaste, tooth scraper.
Never use human toothpaste. It is not edible.
Starting your dog off with this practice takes patience. Reward it constantly.
Start off by getting it used to its mouth being handled.
Progress to touching the teeth with your finger.
Get some meat-flavoured toothpaste and apply with your finger.
Then introduce the brush. Clean a few teeth at a time and soon you will have a routine that takes just minutes.
Brush in a circular motion and get under the gum line.
If you don't want to brush everyday, use a tooth scraper once or twice a month to get rid of the build up of plaque. It accumulates mostly on the outside of the teeth and on the back molars. This won't be much fun for your or your dog though. Lots of bones and hard, crunchy foods can minimize plaque but not to a truly effective degree.
Nails: Every two weeks.
Nail care is very important for your pit bull.
Nails that aren't trimmed can splinter and infect the quick or grow and curl into the flesh. This can be painful for your dog to walk on. It will affect its gait, posture, and eventually it's skeletal and ligament health. Nails should never touch the ground. When your dog is standing its nails should rest above the ground. If you hear clicking on the kitchen floor, clipping is overdue.
Tools: Doggie Nail Clippers (scissors, pliers, guillotine), Dremel or file, Styptic or Kwikstop.
Introducing your dog to nail clipping should start off by getting it used to its paws being handled. Stroke, touch and manipulate your dog's paws whenever you are giving it affection.
Getting it used to the Dremel is your best bet to avoid clipping altogether.
Sit beside your dog and put your arm around its shoulders if you can so that you are clipping from underneath and at the right angle.
Lift the paw and press on it to expose the claw.
If it has a clear nail you should be able to see the quick: a dark bundle of nerves and blood vessels. Clip from underneath close to the quick but do not cut into it. If you do, your dog will soon let you know. Use Styptic pencil or Kwikstop to staunch the bleeding.
Buff the ragged edge with a file or Dremel.
If it has a dark nail, clip just under the curve of the nail and then you will be able to look inside and see the quick if you look close enough. Clip using tiny snips at a time.
Don't forget to check for dewclaws: an extra claw dogs may have farther up on the leg that works like a thumb.
It's better to clip the nails of your pit bull more frequently than not as this causes the quick to recede farther away from the tip.
Paws: Check daily It is very important to check between dog pads for foreign objects that may have wedged there and to check the pads themselves for cuts, scrapes and infection.
Expressing Glands: Every 2 to 4 weeks
This is a task normally done when you take your dog in for professional grooming. Your dog uses scent glands in the anus to mark its territory.
These glands also excrete when your dog defecates. At times, they may get impacted. Signs of this include: increased doggie odour, excessive licking and chewing of the behind and worst of all, scooting (when your dog drags its bottom along the floor or carpet).
There is no risk of overly expressing these glands so it's best to get accustomed to doing it regularly as it will lessen dog odour.
Tools: Warm cloth
Lift the dog's tail and hold the cloth against it's behind. Place your fingers at 5 o'clock and 7 o'clock and press inward and squeeze to expel.
Bathing: As needed
American pit bull terriers do not need regular bathing. This strips the natural oils that protect and repel dirt from the skin. Frequent bathing dries out the skin and is a detriment to a healthy coat.
A rubdown with a damp towel can remove dirt.
With regular brushing, ear cleaning and gland expression, dog odour will remain minimal.
Bathing a few times a year is usually adequate.
The exceptions to this is when your dog manages to find something less than pleasant to roll in, or during its shedding season. A bath can help to remove a large amount of shedding hair.
Tools: Non-slip mat, sprayer hose, dog shampoo, conditioner, leash, towels.
Choose a place where you can block escape routes and expect 1-3 water-spraying shakes.
A leash tied to a higher point than your dog's head will keep it standing and prevent it from escaping. This is highly recommended as it's really difficult to hold a slippery dog.
Never bathe your dog in standing water and never use human shampoo.
If you choose to bathe your pit bull outside, attach the hose to the tap of your kitchen sink for warm water. Grooming salons often offer self-service use of their well-equipped facilities.
Wet your dog using your hand to massage it.
Avoid getting water into the eyes, nose and ears.
Cotton wool can be stuffed into the ear canal to deter water.
Massage the shampoo into a lather.
Rinse thoroughly as leftover shampoo can severely dry out and irritate your pet's skin.
Squeeze out excess water by running your hands along its body and pressing.
Dry with a towel.
Massage or brush your Pit bull terrier at least once a week.
Pit bulls should become accustomed to grooming practices as puppies. If you haven't done this, you'll probably need a good, strong leash, a muzzle, and a pair of helping hands.
Brushing:
. Removes dirt and debris
. Invigorates skin
. Spreads oils to moisturize skin and keep a shiny coat
. Prevents mats and tangles which are irritating painful and can harbor bacteria, fungus, other infection
. Keeps your house cleaner especially during shedding seasons
. Bonding, massaging, loving interaction
. Early detection of fleas, ticks, eczema, infection and smells that may signify sickness
Tools: Rubber curry comb or chamois.
Use the rubber curry comb, always in the direction of hair growth, to stimulate your American pit bull's natural oils and buff him to a glossy shine with a chamois.
It's important to clean between the folds and wrinkles on your dog's face and tail: dampness here can breed bacteria and lead to infection. There is a specific lotion developed for this issue that can be applied within folds.
Eyes: Check your dog's eyes daily.
Debris is flushed to the corners of the eyes and daily wiping with a wet cloth or paper towel can prevent the build up of bacteria.
Ears: Check ears once a week.
Your dogs ears should be pink and healthy inside. If not, don't do anything to them until you see a vet. Keeping your dogs' ears clean minimizes odour, removes dirt, bacteria and mites trapped in wax. Never use a cotton swab on the inner ear.
Tools: cotton wool balls or soft cloth and ear solution. There are solutions made specifically for dogs but substitutes include: hydrogen peroxide, alcohol, mineral oil, witch hazel, and tea tree oil.
Place a few drops of ear solution into the ear of your pit bull. Rub and massage to loosen wax. Swab out with cotton wool balls or cloth.
Teeth: Regularly. 80% of 3 year old dogs have periodontal disease due to lack of brushing. Cavities and gum disease are painful for your dog; they diminish its pleasure and ability to eat. Bacteria that develops can infect the heart, kidney, liver and brain. Really bad breath is usually a sign of gum disease.
Tools: Toothbrush/finger cap/cloth, doggie toothpaste, tooth scraper.
Never use human toothpaste. It is not edible.
Starting your dog off with this practice takes patience. Reward it constantly.
Start off by getting it used to its mouth being handled.
Progress to touching the teeth with your finger.
Get some meat-flavoured toothpaste and apply with your finger.
Then introduce the brush. Clean a few teeth at a time and soon you will have a routine that takes just minutes.
Brush in a circular motion and get under the gum line.
If you don't want to brush everyday, use a tooth scraper once or twice a month to get rid of the build up of plaque. It accumulates mostly on the outside of the teeth and on the back molars. This won't be much fun for your or your dog though. Lots of bones and hard, crunchy foods can minimize plaque but not to a truly effective degree.
Nails: Every two weeks.
Nail care is very important for your pit bull.
Nails that aren't trimmed can splinter and infect the quick or grow and curl into the flesh. This can be painful for your dog to walk on. It will affect its gait, posture, and eventually it's skeletal and ligament health. Nails should never touch the ground. When your dog is standing its nails should rest above the ground. If you hear clicking on the kitchen floor, clipping is overdue.
Tools: Doggie Nail Clippers (scissors, pliers, guillotine), Dremel or file, Styptic or Kwikstop.
Introducing your dog to nail clipping should start off by getting it used to its paws being handled. Stroke, touch and manipulate your dog's paws whenever you are giving it affection.
Getting it used to the Dremel is your best bet to avoid clipping altogether.
Sit beside your dog and put your arm around its shoulders if you can so that you are clipping from underneath and at the right angle.
Lift the paw and press on it to expose the claw.
If it has a clear nail you should be able to see the quick: a dark bundle of nerves and blood vessels. Clip from underneath close to the quick but do not cut into it. If you do, your dog will soon let you know. Use Styptic pencil or Kwikstop to staunch the bleeding.
Buff the ragged edge with a file or Dremel.
If it has a dark nail, clip just under the curve of the nail and then you will be able to look inside and see the quick if you look close enough. Clip using tiny snips at a time.
Don't forget to check for dewclaws: an extra claw dogs may have farther up on the leg that works like a thumb.
It's better to clip the nails of your pit bull more frequently than not as this causes the quick to recede farther away from the tip.
Paws: Check daily It is very important to check between dog pads for foreign objects that may have wedged there and to check the pads themselves for cuts, scrapes and infection.
Expressing Glands: Every 2 to 4 weeks
This is a task normally done when you take your dog in for professional grooming. Your dog uses scent glands in the anus to mark its territory.
These glands also excrete when your dog defecates. At times, they may get impacted. Signs of this include: increased doggie odour, excessive licking and chewing of the behind and worst of all, scooting (when your dog drags its bottom along the floor or carpet).
There is no risk of overly expressing these glands so it's best to get accustomed to doing it regularly as it will lessen dog odour.
Tools: Warm cloth
Lift the dog's tail and hold the cloth against it's behind. Place your fingers at 5 o'clock and 7 o'clock and press inward and squeeze to expel.
Bathing: As needed
American pit bull terriers do not need regular bathing. This strips the natural oils that protect and repel dirt from the skin. Frequent bathing dries out the skin and is a detriment to a healthy coat.
A rubdown with a damp towel can remove dirt.
With regular brushing, ear cleaning and gland expression, dog odour will remain minimal.
Bathing a few times a year is usually adequate.
The exceptions to this is when your dog manages to find something less than pleasant to roll in, or during its shedding season. A bath can help to remove a large amount of shedding hair.
Tools: Non-slip mat, sprayer hose, dog shampoo, conditioner, leash, towels.
Choose a place where you can block escape routes and expect 1-3 water-spraying shakes.
A leash tied to a higher point than your dog's head will keep it standing and prevent it from escaping. This is highly recommended as it's really difficult to hold a slippery dog.
Never bathe your dog in standing water and never use human shampoo.
If you choose to bathe your pit bull outside, attach the hose to the tap of your kitchen sink for warm water. Grooming salons often offer self-service use of their well-equipped facilities.
Wet your dog using your hand to massage it.
Avoid getting water into the eyes, nose and ears.
Cotton wool can be stuffed into the ear canal to deter water.
Massage the shampoo into a lather.
Rinse thoroughly as leftover shampoo can severely dry out and irritate your pet's skin.
Squeeze out excess water by running your hands along its body and pressing.
Dry with a towel.
Rhodesian Ridgeback
The Rhodesian Ridgeback has a smooth, glossy short coat with a distinctive ridge of hair on its back that grows in the opposite direction of the rest of the hair. This dog is an average shedder requiring minimal grooming. An occasional brushing is all that is needed to keep the coat shiny. Baths should be given only when needed.
Tools: Rubber curry comb, chamois weekly.
Rub your Rhodesian down with a curry comb or chamois to pick up hair and dirt and give its coat shine.
Debris is flushed to the corners of the eyes and daily wiping with a wet cloth or paper towel can prevent the build up of bacteria.
Tools: Rubber curry comb, chamois weekly.
Rub your Rhodesian down with a curry comb or chamois to pick up hair and dirt and give its coat shine.
Debris is flushed to the corners of the eyes and daily wiping with a wet cloth or paper towel can prevent the build up of bacteria.
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