AGE REQUIREMENT (DOGS & CATS):
5 months - 5 years
(4 months are accepted providing the kitten or puppy has had 2 sets of the 3 in 1 or 5 in 1 vaccine)
SURGERY PRICES:
CATS
(Includes Rabies, 3-in-1 Vaccines and pain injection)
Spay (female) $75
Neuter (male) $50
DOGS
(Includes Rabies, 5-in-1 Vaccines, pain injection, take home meds and E-collars for males)
Spay (female) $115
Neuter (male) $115
OTHER SERVICES AVAILABLE DURING SURGERY
Microchipping $25 (includes registration)
Earmites $20
FeLV/FIV (Leukemia/Aids) Testing $35
ADDITIONAL CHARGES
Dogs in heat - additional $45.
Dogs pregnant (less than 4 weeks) - additional $45.
Crypt dogs and cats: additional $45. No abdominal exploratory surgery.
Male dogs over 100 pounds incur an additional $20. charage for every 10 pounds.
No female dogs weighing over 70 pounds.
There may be additional charges based on medical conditions. Some examples are weight, pregnancy, undescended testicles, etc. This applies to dogs and cats.
All services must be paid prior to surgery. Operating on a pre-payment basis helps us keep our fees affordable.
Chronic no-shows could cause future denial of services.
*We accept cash, major credit cards and debit cards
Sunday, November 28, 2010
Tuesday, November 23, 2010
DogHouse STuff
Things You'll Need:
Nine 2-by-4-by-30 inch boards
Four 2-by-4-by-26 inch boards
Five pieces of 1/2-inch treated plywood, 30 by 30 inches
One piece 1/2-inch treated plywood, 15 by 30 inches
Saw
3/4-inch nails, 200
3-inch nails, 30
Screws 6 half-inch
Three 1-inch hinges
Two latches, such as eye-and-hook
Hammer
Screwdriver
•Cut the 2-by-4 inch boards and plywood as indicated in supplies needed to build a doghouse with a flat roof.
•2
Frame 4 of the 2-by-4 inch boards into a square frame by placing 2 of the 30-inch boards across from each other and 2 of the 26-inch boards 2 inches inside the edges of the 30-inch boards so that the edges are smooth. Repeat this process to create a second square.
•3
Hammer 3-inch nails into the 30-inch boards so that the nails go into the 26-inch boards, securing the square frames. Be sure to use at least 2 nails in each board.
•4
Hammer 3-inch nails into one 2-by-4-by-30 inch board into the inside of each corner, creating a cube. Also, hammer one 30-inch board 15 inches from one corner to create the door of the doghouse.
•5
Attach the 1/2-inch treated plywood squares using the 3/4-inch nails to the bottom of the cube creating the floor, the top of the cube creating the roof, and three sides of the cube. Do not yet attach the plywood to the side of the cube where you will make the door; this is the side that has a board attached at the 15-inch mark.
•6
Use the three hinges and screws to attach the smaller piece of 1/2-inch treated plywood, 15-by-30 inches, to the corner of the doghouse on the side you left open. Place the two latches on the board at the 15-inch mark. This will allow you to open the doghouse if necessary to clean it or to add bedding
Read more: How to Build a Doghouse With a Flat Roof | eHow.com http://www.ehow.com/how_4883005_build-doghouse-flat-roof.html#ixzz16AaS4jOw
Read more: How to Build a Doghouse With a Flat Roof | eHow.com http://www.ehow.com/how_4883005_build-doghouse-flat-roof.html#ixzz16AaM0Fbz
http://www.woodvendors.com/index.php/lumber.html
8 pieces to make a fence (a piece of fence) to hold a dog. (if i wanted to ahold dogs and sell them (like a animal control place). a total amount of money 172 dollars. thats 0.48 cents board a foot for a wooded a fence. so far the cheapest. a five piece by 2 piece.
4x8 ceder 67 dollars..... http://www.hooverfence.com/wood/dog-ear-spaced.htm
18dollars for wire mesh fence
t post anywhere from 9 dollars to 17dollars.
Nine 2-by-4-by-30 inch boards
Four 2-by-4-by-26 inch boards
Five pieces of 1/2-inch treated plywood, 30 by 30 inches
One piece 1/2-inch treated plywood, 15 by 30 inches
Saw
3/4-inch nails, 200
3-inch nails, 30
Screws 6 half-inch
Three 1-inch hinges
Two latches, such as eye-and-hook
Hammer
Screwdriver
•Cut the 2-by-4 inch boards and plywood as indicated in supplies needed to build a doghouse with a flat roof.
•2
Frame 4 of the 2-by-4 inch boards into a square frame by placing 2 of the 30-inch boards across from each other and 2 of the 26-inch boards 2 inches inside the edges of the 30-inch boards so that the edges are smooth. Repeat this process to create a second square.
•3
Hammer 3-inch nails into the 30-inch boards so that the nails go into the 26-inch boards, securing the square frames. Be sure to use at least 2 nails in each board.
•4
Hammer 3-inch nails into one 2-by-4-by-30 inch board into the inside of each corner, creating a cube. Also, hammer one 30-inch board 15 inches from one corner to create the door of the doghouse.
•5
Attach the 1/2-inch treated plywood squares using the 3/4-inch nails to the bottom of the cube creating the floor, the top of the cube creating the roof, and three sides of the cube. Do not yet attach the plywood to the side of the cube where you will make the door; this is the side that has a board attached at the 15-inch mark.
•6
Use the three hinges and screws to attach the smaller piece of 1/2-inch treated plywood, 15-by-30 inches, to the corner of the doghouse on the side you left open. Place the two latches on the board at the 15-inch mark. This will allow you to open the doghouse if necessary to clean it or to add bedding
Read more: How to Build a Doghouse With a Flat Roof | eHow.com http://www.ehow.com/how_4883005_build-doghouse-flat-roof.html#ixzz16AaS4jOw
Read more: How to Build a Doghouse With a Flat Roof | eHow.com http://www.ehow.com/how_4883005_build-doghouse-flat-roof.html#ixzz16AaM0Fbz
http://www.woodvendors.com/index.php/lumber.html
8 pieces to make a fence (a piece of fence) to hold a dog. (if i wanted to ahold dogs and sell them (like a animal control place). a total amount of money 172 dollars. thats 0.48 cents board a foot for a wooded a fence. so far the cheapest. a five piece by 2 piece.
4x8 ceder 67 dollars..... http://www.hooverfence.com/wood/dog-ear-spaced.htm
18dollars for wire mesh fence
t post anywhere from 9 dollars to 17dollars.
Thursday, November 18, 2010
American Pit Bull Terrier
This strong dog has a short, flat and harsh coat needing very little grooming.
Massage or brush your Pit bull terrier at least once a week.
Pit bulls should become accustomed to grooming practices as puppies. If you haven't done this, you'll probably need a good, strong leash, a muzzle, and a pair of helping hands.
Brushing:
. Removes dirt and debris
. Invigorates skin
. Spreads oils to moisturize skin and keep a shiny coat
. Prevents mats and tangles which are irritating painful and can harbor bacteria, fungus, other infection
. Keeps your house cleaner especially during shedding seasons
. Bonding, massaging, loving interaction
. Early detection of fleas, ticks, eczema, infection and smells that may signify sickness
Tools: Rubber curry comb or chamois.
Use the rubber curry comb, always in the direction of hair growth, to stimulate your American pit bull's natural oils and buff him to a glossy shine with a chamois.
It's important to clean between the folds and wrinkles on your dog's face and tail: dampness here can breed bacteria and lead to infection. There is a specific lotion developed for this issue that can be applied within folds.
Eyes: Check your dog's eyes daily.
Debris is flushed to the corners of the eyes and daily wiping with a wet cloth or paper towel can prevent the build up of bacteria.
Ears: Check ears once a week.
Your dogs ears should be pink and healthy inside. If not, don't do anything to them until you see a vet. Keeping your dogs' ears clean minimizes odour, removes dirt, bacteria and mites trapped in wax. Never use a cotton swab on the inner ear.
Tools: cotton wool balls or soft cloth and ear solution. There are solutions made specifically for dogs but substitutes include: hydrogen peroxide, alcohol, mineral oil, witch hazel, and tea tree oil.
Place a few drops of ear solution into the ear of your pit bull. Rub and massage to loosen wax. Swab out with cotton wool balls or cloth.
Teeth: Regularly. 80% of 3 year old dogs have periodontal disease due to lack of brushing. Cavities and gum disease are painful for your dog; they diminish its pleasure and ability to eat. Bacteria that develops can infect the heart, kidney, liver and brain. Really bad breath is usually a sign of gum disease.
Tools: Toothbrush/finger cap/cloth, doggie toothpaste, tooth scraper.
Never use human toothpaste. It is not edible.
Starting your dog off with this practice takes patience. Reward it constantly.
Start off by getting it used to its mouth being handled.
Progress to touching the teeth with your finger.
Get some meat-flavoured toothpaste and apply with your finger.
Then introduce the brush. Clean a few teeth at a time and soon you will have a routine that takes just minutes.
Brush in a circular motion and get under the gum line.
If you don't want to brush everyday, use a tooth scraper once or twice a month to get rid of the build up of plaque. It accumulates mostly on the outside of the teeth and on the back molars. This won't be much fun for your or your dog though. Lots of bones and hard, crunchy foods can minimize plaque but not to a truly effective degree.
Nails: Every two weeks.
Nail care is very important for your pit bull.
Nails that aren't trimmed can splinter and infect the quick or grow and curl into the flesh. This can be painful for your dog to walk on. It will affect its gait, posture, and eventually it's skeletal and ligament health. Nails should never touch the ground. When your dog is standing its nails should rest above the ground. If you hear clicking on the kitchen floor, clipping is overdue.
Tools: Doggie Nail Clippers (scissors, pliers, guillotine), Dremel or file, Styptic or Kwikstop.
Introducing your dog to nail clipping should start off by getting it used to its paws being handled. Stroke, touch and manipulate your dog's paws whenever you are giving it affection.
Getting it used to the Dremel is your best bet to avoid clipping altogether.
Sit beside your dog and put your arm around its shoulders if you can so that you are clipping from underneath and at the right angle.
Lift the paw and press on it to expose the claw.
If it has a clear nail you should be able to see the quick: a dark bundle of nerves and blood vessels. Clip from underneath close to the quick but do not cut into it. If you do, your dog will soon let you know. Use Styptic pencil or Kwikstop to staunch the bleeding.
Buff the ragged edge with a file or Dremel.
If it has a dark nail, clip just under the curve of the nail and then you will be able to look inside and see the quick if you look close enough. Clip using tiny snips at a time.
Don't forget to check for dewclaws: an extra claw dogs may have farther up on the leg that works like a thumb.
It's better to clip the nails of your pit bull more frequently than not as this causes the quick to recede farther away from the tip.
Paws: Check daily It is very important to check between dog pads for foreign objects that may have wedged there and to check the pads themselves for cuts, scrapes and infection.
Expressing Glands: Every 2 to 4 weeks
This is a task normally done when you take your dog in for professional grooming. Your dog uses scent glands in the anus to mark its territory.
These glands also excrete when your dog defecates. At times, they may get impacted. Signs of this include: increased doggie odour, excessive licking and chewing of the behind and worst of all, scooting (when your dog drags its bottom along the floor or carpet).
There is no risk of overly expressing these glands so it's best to get accustomed to doing it regularly as it will lessen dog odour.
Tools: Warm cloth
Lift the dog's tail and hold the cloth against it's behind. Place your fingers at 5 o'clock and 7 o'clock and press inward and squeeze to expel.
Bathing: As needed
American pit bull terriers do not need regular bathing. This strips the natural oils that protect and repel dirt from the skin. Frequent bathing dries out the skin and is a detriment to a healthy coat.
A rubdown with a damp towel can remove dirt.
With regular brushing, ear cleaning and gland expression, dog odour will remain minimal.
Bathing a few times a year is usually adequate.
The exceptions to this is when your dog manages to find something less than pleasant to roll in, or during its shedding season. A bath can help to remove a large amount of shedding hair.
Tools: Non-slip mat, sprayer hose, dog shampoo, conditioner, leash, towels.
Choose a place where you can block escape routes and expect 1-3 water-spraying shakes.
A leash tied to a higher point than your dog's head will keep it standing and prevent it from escaping. This is highly recommended as it's really difficult to hold a slippery dog.
Never bathe your dog in standing water and never use human shampoo.
If you choose to bathe your pit bull outside, attach the hose to the tap of your kitchen sink for warm water. Grooming salons often offer self-service use of their well-equipped facilities.
Wet your dog using your hand to massage it.
Avoid getting water into the eyes, nose and ears.
Cotton wool can be stuffed into the ear canal to deter water.
Massage the shampoo into a lather.
Rinse thoroughly as leftover shampoo can severely dry out and irritate your pet's skin.
Squeeze out excess water by running your hands along its body and pressing.
Dry with a towel.
Massage or brush your Pit bull terrier at least once a week.
Pit bulls should become accustomed to grooming practices as puppies. If you haven't done this, you'll probably need a good, strong leash, a muzzle, and a pair of helping hands.
Brushing:
. Removes dirt and debris
. Invigorates skin
. Spreads oils to moisturize skin and keep a shiny coat
. Prevents mats and tangles which are irritating painful and can harbor bacteria, fungus, other infection
. Keeps your house cleaner especially during shedding seasons
. Bonding, massaging, loving interaction
. Early detection of fleas, ticks, eczema, infection and smells that may signify sickness
Tools: Rubber curry comb or chamois.
Use the rubber curry comb, always in the direction of hair growth, to stimulate your American pit bull's natural oils and buff him to a glossy shine with a chamois.
It's important to clean between the folds and wrinkles on your dog's face and tail: dampness here can breed bacteria and lead to infection. There is a specific lotion developed for this issue that can be applied within folds.
Eyes: Check your dog's eyes daily.
Debris is flushed to the corners of the eyes and daily wiping with a wet cloth or paper towel can prevent the build up of bacteria.
Ears: Check ears once a week.
Your dogs ears should be pink and healthy inside. If not, don't do anything to them until you see a vet. Keeping your dogs' ears clean minimizes odour, removes dirt, bacteria and mites trapped in wax. Never use a cotton swab on the inner ear.
Tools: cotton wool balls or soft cloth and ear solution. There are solutions made specifically for dogs but substitutes include: hydrogen peroxide, alcohol, mineral oil, witch hazel, and tea tree oil.
Place a few drops of ear solution into the ear of your pit bull. Rub and massage to loosen wax. Swab out with cotton wool balls or cloth.
Teeth: Regularly. 80% of 3 year old dogs have periodontal disease due to lack of brushing. Cavities and gum disease are painful for your dog; they diminish its pleasure and ability to eat. Bacteria that develops can infect the heart, kidney, liver and brain. Really bad breath is usually a sign of gum disease.
Tools: Toothbrush/finger cap/cloth, doggie toothpaste, tooth scraper.
Never use human toothpaste. It is not edible.
Starting your dog off with this practice takes patience. Reward it constantly.
Start off by getting it used to its mouth being handled.
Progress to touching the teeth with your finger.
Get some meat-flavoured toothpaste and apply with your finger.
Then introduce the brush. Clean a few teeth at a time and soon you will have a routine that takes just minutes.
Brush in a circular motion and get under the gum line.
If you don't want to brush everyday, use a tooth scraper once or twice a month to get rid of the build up of plaque. It accumulates mostly on the outside of the teeth and on the back molars. This won't be much fun for your or your dog though. Lots of bones and hard, crunchy foods can minimize plaque but not to a truly effective degree.
Nails: Every two weeks.
Nail care is very important for your pit bull.
Nails that aren't trimmed can splinter and infect the quick or grow and curl into the flesh. This can be painful for your dog to walk on. It will affect its gait, posture, and eventually it's skeletal and ligament health. Nails should never touch the ground. When your dog is standing its nails should rest above the ground. If you hear clicking on the kitchen floor, clipping is overdue.
Tools: Doggie Nail Clippers (scissors, pliers, guillotine), Dremel or file, Styptic or Kwikstop.
Introducing your dog to nail clipping should start off by getting it used to its paws being handled. Stroke, touch and manipulate your dog's paws whenever you are giving it affection.
Getting it used to the Dremel is your best bet to avoid clipping altogether.
Sit beside your dog and put your arm around its shoulders if you can so that you are clipping from underneath and at the right angle.
Lift the paw and press on it to expose the claw.
If it has a clear nail you should be able to see the quick: a dark bundle of nerves and blood vessels. Clip from underneath close to the quick but do not cut into it. If you do, your dog will soon let you know. Use Styptic pencil or Kwikstop to staunch the bleeding.
Buff the ragged edge with a file or Dremel.
If it has a dark nail, clip just under the curve of the nail and then you will be able to look inside and see the quick if you look close enough. Clip using tiny snips at a time.
Don't forget to check for dewclaws: an extra claw dogs may have farther up on the leg that works like a thumb.
It's better to clip the nails of your pit bull more frequently than not as this causes the quick to recede farther away from the tip.
Paws: Check daily It is very important to check between dog pads for foreign objects that may have wedged there and to check the pads themselves for cuts, scrapes and infection.
Expressing Glands: Every 2 to 4 weeks
This is a task normally done when you take your dog in for professional grooming. Your dog uses scent glands in the anus to mark its territory.
These glands also excrete when your dog defecates. At times, they may get impacted. Signs of this include: increased doggie odour, excessive licking and chewing of the behind and worst of all, scooting (when your dog drags its bottom along the floor or carpet).
There is no risk of overly expressing these glands so it's best to get accustomed to doing it regularly as it will lessen dog odour.
Tools: Warm cloth
Lift the dog's tail and hold the cloth against it's behind. Place your fingers at 5 o'clock and 7 o'clock and press inward and squeeze to expel.
Bathing: As needed
American pit bull terriers do not need regular bathing. This strips the natural oils that protect and repel dirt from the skin. Frequent bathing dries out the skin and is a detriment to a healthy coat.
A rubdown with a damp towel can remove dirt.
With regular brushing, ear cleaning and gland expression, dog odour will remain minimal.
Bathing a few times a year is usually adequate.
The exceptions to this is when your dog manages to find something less than pleasant to roll in, or during its shedding season. A bath can help to remove a large amount of shedding hair.
Tools: Non-slip mat, sprayer hose, dog shampoo, conditioner, leash, towels.
Choose a place where you can block escape routes and expect 1-3 water-spraying shakes.
A leash tied to a higher point than your dog's head will keep it standing and prevent it from escaping. This is highly recommended as it's really difficult to hold a slippery dog.
Never bathe your dog in standing water and never use human shampoo.
If you choose to bathe your pit bull outside, attach the hose to the tap of your kitchen sink for warm water. Grooming salons often offer self-service use of their well-equipped facilities.
Wet your dog using your hand to massage it.
Avoid getting water into the eyes, nose and ears.
Cotton wool can be stuffed into the ear canal to deter water.
Massage the shampoo into a lather.
Rinse thoroughly as leftover shampoo can severely dry out and irritate your pet's skin.
Squeeze out excess water by running your hands along its body and pressing.
Dry with a towel.
Rhodesian Ridgeback
The Rhodesian Ridgeback has a smooth, glossy short coat with a distinctive ridge of hair on its back that grows in the opposite direction of the rest of the hair. This dog is an average shedder requiring minimal grooming. An occasional brushing is all that is needed to keep the coat shiny. Baths should be given only when needed.
Tools: Rubber curry comb, chamois weekly.
Rub your Rhodesian down with a curry comb or chamois to pick up hair and dirt and give its coat shine.
Debris is flushed to the corners of the eyes and daily wiping with a wet cloth or paper towel can prevent the build up of bacteria.
Tools: Rubber curry comb, chamois weekly.
Rub your Rhodesian down with a curry comb or chamois to pick up hair and dirt and give its coat shine.
Debris is flushed to the corners of the eyes and daily wiping with a wet cloth or paper towel can prevent the build up of bacteria.
Chow
AREA BLADE #
Body #7
Pads #15
Stomach #10
Slicker brush, metal combs (wide and regular tooth), scissors, clippers, blades (if clipping, see below) and matt splitter (as needed).
Regular brushing and combing several times a week is essential in order to remove substantial wooly hair shed from the dense undercoat, and not only the outer coarse guard coat which protects the undercoat. The density of the hair coat can be misleading to novice groomers or owners of this breed; it is very dense.
The comfort of the Chow Chow through the professional grooming process is significantly increased when the dog owner has maintained proper regular brushing and combing. Detangling products may work well on this type of wooly under coat when matted or heavily-undercoated. Allow extra time to groom these dogs with poor coat conditions.
Hair shed not removed from the undercoat as well as any in the outer coat easily invites tangling and matting with time, and whenever the dog gets wet, even damp. Remove the hair shed from the under coat before bathing with a thorough brush and comb out. Wetting the wooly undercoat causes matting and tangling effects to increase almost immediately. Experienced groomers may choose to remove some of the last under coat hair shed after bathing, and after adding a conditioner to make final under
Some groomers are cautious to very cautious about grooming Chow Chows. They are very loyal to their owners and may be aggressive with groomers unfamiliar with them. Hopefully the Chow Chow pet owner will start grooming their dog at an early age as well as introducing them to professional grooming in order to ease any aggressive tendencies. We know some experienced groomers that have eased the problem by having the owner of the aggressive Chow Chow stay during the first two grooming appointments and show their approval for the groomer working on them. Thereafter, the same groomer should groom the adapted Chow Chow. Only very experienced groomers should handle any aggressive dog regardless of breed.
Body #7
Pads #15
Stomach #10
Slicker brush, metal combs (wide and regular tooth), scissors, clippers, blades (if clipping, see below) and matt splitter (as needed).
Regular brushing and combing several times a week is essential in order to remove substantial wooly hair shed from the dense undercoat, and not only the outer coarse guard coat which protects the undercoat. The density of the hair coat can be misleading to novice groomers or owners of this breed; it is very dense.
The comfort of the Chow Chow through the professional grooming process is significantly increased when the dog owner has maintained proper regular brushing and combing. Detangling products may work well on this type of wooly under coat when matted or heavily-undercoated. Allow extra time to groom these dogs with poor coat conditions.
Hair shed not removed from the undercoat as well as any in the outer coat easily invites tangling and matting with time, and whenever the dog gets wet, even damp. Remove the hair shed from the under coat before bathing with a thorough brush and comb out. Wetting the wooly undercoat causes matting and tangling effects to increase almost immediately. Experienced groomers may choose to remove some of the last under coat hair shed after bathing, and after adding a conditioner to make final under
Some groomers are cautious to very cautious about grooming Chow Chows. They are very loyal to their owners and may be aggressive with groomers unfamiliar with them. Hopefully the Chow Chow pet owner will start grooming their dog at an early age as well as introducing them to professional grooming in order to ease any aggressive tendencies. We know some experienced groomers that have eased the problem by having the owner of the aggressive Chow Chow stay during the first two grooming appointments and show their approval for the groomer working on them. Thereafter, the same groomer should groom the adapted Chow Chow. Only very experienced groomers should handle any aggressive dog regardless of breed.
American Cocker Spaniel
Supplies Needed
Large pin brush Slicker brush Matting comb
Steel comb Ear powder (medicated) Nail clipper
(guillotine type)
Oster Clipper A5
(recommended) Lanolin coat conditioner Scissors
# 10 blade # 7 or 8 1/2 blade Thinning shears
Artificial tears eye drops
Large pin brush ....Brushing the coat
Slicker brush/Matting comb..... Removing mats
Ear powder ....Inside of ears
Nail clipper.... Nails (use caution)*
Scissors.... -between pads of feet
-leg feathering
-feet
# 10 blade -about 1/2" around the anus (never directly on anus)
-underneath tail
- pelvis (navel to groin)
-front neck
-top upper 1/3 of ears (inside & out)
- head
Steel comb ......Entire coat
# 10 or 8 1/2 or 7...... Entire back & tail (from back neck to tail)
Thinning shears --blending uneven hair at shoulders and hindquarters with -leg feathering
-blending uneven hair on chest
-under chest (if necessary)
-front legs
Lanolin coat .....conditioner Entire coat
Artificial tears eye drops ..... Use during and after clipping to remove any hair blown into the eyes
Large pin brush Slicker brush Matting comb
Steel comb Ear powder (medicated) Nail clipper
(guillotine type)
Oster Clipper A5
(recommended) Lanolin coat conditioner Scissors
# 10 blade # 7 or 8 1/2 blade Thinning shears
Artificial tears eye drops
Large pin brush ....Brushing the coat
Slicker brush/Matting comb..... Removing mats
Ear powder ....Inside of ears
Nail clipper.... Nails (use caution)*
Scissors.... -between pads of feet
-leg feathering
-feet
# 10 blade -about 1/2" around the anus (never directly on anus)
-underneath tail
- pelvis (navel to groin)
-front neck
-top upper 1/3 of ears (inside & out)
- head
Steel comb ......Entire coat
# 10 or 8 1/2 or 7...... Entire back & tail (from back neck to tail)
Thinning shears --blending uneven hair at shoulders and hindquarters with -leg feathering
-blending uneven hair on chest
-under chest (if necessary)
-front legs
Lanolin coat .....conditioner Entire coat
Artificial tears eye drops ..... Use during and after clipping to remove any hair blown into the eyes
Havenese
Grooming
Tools Required
medium round toothed steel comb
small, close toothed comb (or small flea comb)
Pin brush
Small blunt-tipped scissors
Nail trimmer
Hair Dryer
Grooming table
Lots of towels
Spray bottles
Mineral oil in dropper (for eyes)
Cotton balls (for ears)
Brushing
Havanese have a long, soft and wavy coat. Brushing daily or every second day is important if you don’t want to fight with matting in the hair. Even though a pup doesn't require as frequent a brushing, it is good to make it a routine early. With constant gentleness, praise and rewards afterwards, grooming will become a pleasant time for both of you.
I found a Pin brush more effective that a bristle brush because of the thickness and waviness of the Havanese coat. Always wet hair using a spray bottle filled with water, or a water/detangler/conditioner mix before brushing. Wet any tangles or mats and gently tease them apart with your fingers or a comb. Always brush a long coat in sections, working from the roots (close to the skin) out. When brushing is finished, run a medium comb through the hair to check for hidden knots.
Bathing
A clean coat is less prone to tangles. How often you need to bath your pup depends on his environment and also his color. Dogs kept in clean surroundings may not need as frequent a bathing.
Being prepared for the bath makes things go a lot smoother and easier. Always brush out hair well before bathing. Putting a drop of mineral oil in each eye protects the eyes from the soap and putting a half a cotton ball in each ear helps keep the water out of the ears. It’s best to try to keep the ears dry inside so as not to cause problems with infections. Keeping the hair from the inside of the ears by gently removing it by pinching it out with your fingers prevents problems as well. Make a habit of pulling the hair out just before you put in the cotton ball so then it becomes routine and doesn't have a chance to build up. Last of all make sure to have a nice big towel ready for afterwards.
Use warm water (body temperature) and wet the entire dog except for his head. Apply shampoo with a spray bottle (mixture of shampoo with water) to help to spread the shampoo and rub in gently so as not to tangle the coat too much. I usually wash the areas such as the feet, butt and front neck area twice in order to get them good and clean. Rinse very well and apply conditioner (some conditioners you can leave in to save time). Once you have finished with the body you can start bathing the head. This is the part that the pup dislike the most, and so I leave it to last.
The inner corners of the eyes get a buildup of gunk. Wetting first with warm water and then gently combing them out should loosen the crusty. I use a flea comb to do this. If you want to prevent serious tear staining, eye cleaning should be done daily. This website has quite good information on this subject http://www.bhejei.com/tearsta.htm
When washing the ear, even though you have put cotton in them to protect them from the water, be careful not spray water directly into them.
Blow-drying prevents tangles that occur if the coat dries naturally. Start by separating the hair with your fingers as your dry and as the coat becomes less wet, use the pin brush to separate the hairs and keep the tangles out - this also helps to speed up the drying time.
Monthly Maintenance
Trimming the nails is an important part of grooming and if you start slowly – simply holding the pup still and separating the toes without clipping for the first few times – this helps the pup to adjust to the ordeal. Then try cutting only one nail and with much praise and a treat, next time he may allow you to clip two. Soon you’ll be able to do the whole job at once.
I like to take small clips rather than a large amount at once, just to make sure I don’t cut into the nail ‘quick’. It causes the nail to bleed even though it isn’t serious and it heals quickly.
In addition to keeping the hair out of the ears, it is necessary to keep the bum area and piddle area clean of hair. This helps the pup stay tidy when he is eliminating. I use a good quality blunt tipped pair of scissors for this.
Tools Required
medium round toothed steel comb
small, close toothed comb (or small flea comb)
Pin brush
Small blunt-tipped scissors
Nail trimmer
Hair Dryer
Grooming table
Lots of towels
Spray bottles
Mineral oil in dropper (for eyes)
Cotton balls (for ears)
Brushing
Havanese have a long, soft and wavy coat. Brushing daily or every second day is important if you don’t want to fight with matting in the hair. Even though a pup doesn't require as frequent a brushing, it is good to make it a routine early. With constant gentleness, praise and rewards afterwards, grooming will become a pleasant time for both of you.
I found a Pin brush more effective that a bristle brush because of the thickness and waviness of the Havanese coat. Always wet hair using a spray bottle filled with water, or a water/detangler/conditioner mix before brushing. Wet any tangles or mats and gently tease them apart with your fingers or a comb. Always brush a long coat in sections, working from the roots (close to the skin) out. When brushing is finished, run a medium comb through the hair to check for hidden knots.
Bathing
A clean coat is less prone to tangles. How often you need to bath your pup depends on his environment and also his color. Dogs kept in clean surroundings may not need as frequent a bathing.
Being prepared for the bath makes things go a lot smoother and easier. Always brush out hair well before bathing. Putting a drop of mineral oil in each eye protects the eyes from the soap and putting a half a cotton ball in each ear helps keep the water out of the ears. It’s best to try to keep the ears dry inside so as not to cause problems with infections. Keeping the hair from the inside of the ears by gently removing it by pinching it out with your fingers prevents problems as well. Make a habit of pulling the hair out just before you put in the cotton ball so then it becomes routine and doesn't have a chance to build up. Last of all make sure to have a nice big towel ready for afterwards.
Use warm water (body temperature) and wet the entire dog except for his head. Apply shampoo with a spray bottle (mixture of shampoo with water) to help to spread the shampoo and rub in gently so as not to tangle the coat too much. I usually wash the areas such as the feet, butt and front neck area twice in order to get them good and clean. Rinse very well and apply conditioner (some conditioners you can leave in to save time). Once you have finished with the body you can start bathing the head. This is the part that the pup dislike the most, and so I leave it to last.
The inner corners of the eyes get a buildup of gunk. Wetting first with warm water and then gently combing them out should loosen the crusty. I use a flea comb to do this. If you want to prevent serious tear staining, eye cleaning should be done daily. This website has quite good information on this subject http://www.bhejei.com/tearsta.htm
When washing the ear, even though you have put cotton in them to protect them from the water, be careful not spray water directly into them.
Blow-drying prevents tangles that occur if the coat dries naturally. Start by separating the hair with your fingers as your dry and as the coat becomes less wet, use the pin brush to separate the hairs and keep the tangles out - this also helps to speed up the drying time.
Monthly Maintenance
Trimming the nails is an important part of grooming and if you start slowly – simply holding the pup still and separating the toes without clipping for the first few times – this helps the pup to adjust to the ordeal. Then try cutting only one nail and with much praise and a treat, next time he may allow you to clip two. Soon you’ll be able to do the whole job at once.
I like to take small clips rather than a large amount at once, just to make sure I don’t cut into the nail ‘quick’. It causes the nail to bleed even though it isn’t serious and it heals quickly.
In addition to keeping the hair out of the ears, it is necessary to keep the bum area and piddle area clean of hair. This helps the pup stay tidy when he is eliminating. I use a good quality blunt tipped pair of scissors for this.
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